March—and her birthstone, the Aquamarine—is here! The name Aquamarine was coined in 1677; the clear, aqueous blue gemstone was reminiscent of seawater, or "water" + "from the sea." But the stone had been well-known well before this date. Ancient Romans believed that the gemstone had the power to calm the seas, thus protecting seafarers. In New Age circles, the aquamarine's clear, bright coloration symbolizes youth, purity and happiness. And they are believed to help bring happiness to marriages. Aquamarine is the state gemstone of Colorado. Aquamarines are the aqua blue variation of the gemstone Beryl. Because they are rather plentiful, aquamarines are not very expensive (unlike the much-rarer beryl variant, the emerald). And enormous aquamarines have been mined; the largest...
The Art Nouveau Movement could be found in many Western countries during the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. It might be called Arts & Crafts (in England), Craftsman Style (in America), Jugendstil (in Germany), Secessionism (in Austria) or Stile Liberty (in Italy). While the different countries may express different aspects or aesthetic characteristics, their motivations remained unified: a move away from industrial production while promoting accomplished handcraft—employing themes of nature, honoring natural materials, and reviving historic cultural elements (literature, mythology, symbolism or indigenous graphics).
These 14 karat gold cufflinks were made in Austria at the Turn-of-the-Century. A scrolling botanical hand-etched design swirls about the faces of the cufflinks.
A light—but stylish—engraved treatment adds an elegant zing to these handsome Victorian Aesthetic Movement rolled-gold cufflinks, made at the Turn-of-the-Century. Such a restrained and tailored look is well-suited to elegant menswear. I see them on a soft blue shirt—with crisply-starched cuffs—peeking-out from the sleeve of a dark grey, chalk-striped wool. Conservative, perhaps, but classic to the core.
This pair of American Victorian cufflinks are a dynamic swirl of floral engraving, etched graphics and an energetic, circling border meant to contain all the motion and energy. They were made around 1900 in Providence, Rhode Island—a powerhouse of American jewelry manufacturing in the late Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries. They are signed "Parks Brothers & Rogers" which operated from 1892 until 1930.
Though made in the Victorian 1890's, these cufflinks have a handsome Georgian sensibility: simple, restrained, elegant. The "mounded" oval forms are polished but otherwise left clean—making them suitable for the engraving of a monogram. Although unmarked, they have some gold content of unknown percentage. Monogramed or not, they would provide a classic, understated closure to your shirt cuffs.
We interrupt our regularly-scheduled programming (Victorian cufflinks) to make note of this exceptional day: Tuesday, Two Twenty-Two Twenty-Two!
Two golden (polished bronze) eggs sit in this rustic cast-bronze nest, lovingly crafted in Canada. Such an interesting desk item will certainly provoke visitors to pick-up and fondle the clutch. The nest, alone, would make a perfect clip holder, ring saver or place to throw your keys near the door. And, of course, the two eggs will forever commemorate this special date.
And now: back to our regularly scheduled programming...
The English jeweler, Charles Horner, founded his namesake company in West Yorkshire in the 1860's. Although he made a large range of jewelry, the company is best known for its sterling silver Arts & Crafts hatpins, necklaces and brooches, which are usually enameled. Charles died in 1896 after which his sons opened a new workshop and expanded the product line to include other silver objects including clocks, silverware and various table service items. Most of Charles Horner's sterling was taken to the assay office in Chester for official hallmarking.
After WWI, the company began producing items with the new plastic material "casein" (under the trade name "Dorcasine").
In architecture and the decorative arts, a "grotesque" is a hideous human or animal face used in a highly embellished (and theatrical) manner of decoration. They have been utilized since Ancient Roman times, perhaps to illustrate the dark side of human behavior or to scare away evil spirits or habits. The name is derived from the Italian word "grottesca" which means "from a cave," for it was by being lowered into caves that 15th Century archaeologists rediscovered Emperor Nero's Domus Aurea palace in Rome—where such grotesque masks had been employed with abandon. Grotesques were much-used in the Medieval period, too, especially in churches, reminders to the faithful of the ultimate wages of sin. They were intended to frighten the congregants while warding-off evil....
The Aesthetic Movement flourished in the last three decades of the Nineteenth Century. It could be considered a precursor to the Arts & Crafts Movement—with its liberal use of stylized botanical and naturalistic themes, the strong influence of Japanese graphic design, and a fearlessness of presenting handsome physical adornment.
Aestheticism valued beauty, above all, and argued that the only requirement of art was to convey that beauty. "Statements" (like morality or justice or historicism) were not required of great art. Aesthetes promoted "Art for Art's sake" and "Beauty for Beauty's sake." Good taste, artistic talent, and (above all) aesthetics were the hallmarks of great works. If a painting (or sculpture or lamp or necklace) was beautiful, no further statement was necessary.
A lush bed of engraved ivy leaves crowd the chevron-form faces of these English Late-Victorian gold-content cufflinks from the 1890's. Despite the tremendous detailing, they present a rather sophisticated look on the cuff—shape, color and subtle texture. Click on the photo above to learn more about them.
Birmingham was a center of British Industrial Age manufacturing—and jewelry making was no exception. This "City of a Thousand Trades" has been producing metalworks, china, glass, weapons, automobiles and machinery for centuries. In the Nineteenth Century, Birmingham was called "The Workshop of the World" and it was populated with manufacturers large and small. Though the city is inland, a vast network of canals allowed cheap, fast and efficient shipping; raw materials were brought-in and finished goods were shipped out. Such direct access to coastal ports allowed high-quality Birmingham goods to be shipped-onwards to the rest of Europe, America, Asia and Africa.
Queen Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901—an era well-represented in our collection of handsome cufflinks. For the rest of the month, we'll be sharing some of these Victorian cufflinks offerings, many of them recently acquired.
Handsomeness is not the only interesting attribute of these Victorian English cufflinks from the 1890's. The polished carnelian "domed" cabochons are set into silver mounts—which can be "unclipped" and used as four shirt buttons on a dress shirt. Victorian ingenuity allows for variety and adaptability, even today.
Cufflink production really took-off during the Victorian Era, thanks to the growth of the Middle Class (with a new-found discretionary income) and the evolution of industrial production (which made it possible to create quality goods in significant quantity at affordable prices). Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901. Here at LEO Design, we collect American and European cufflinks from the Victorian though the Modernist eras with a sizable Art Deco collection. For the rest of the month, we'll be sharing some of our Victorian cufflinks offerings, many of them recently acquired.
The gold-content cufflinks, shown above, express elegant Victorian elan. A "ruffled" edge, decorated like architectural moulding, surrounds a central face, machine-etched with radiant engraving and a stylish "diamond" graphic at center.
Saint Valentine was a Roman priest (and possibly bishop) who ministered to persecuted Christians in Third Century Rome. His evangelical efforts were not appreciated by the Roman authorities. He was arrested more than once, the final time by the Emperor Claudius Gothicas—who came to like Valentine. However, when Valentine pushed the Emperor to convert to Christianity, the monarch provided his own ultimatum: either Valentine renounce his faith or he would be clubbed and beheaded. The priest refused to renounce and was martyred on 14 February 269. Valentine's relics have proved popular for centuries—and remain so to this day—especially amongst those seeking love and marriage. Portions of his purported relics are venerated in the cities of Rome, Madrid, Vienna, Prague, Dublin, Glasgow, Birmingham,...
If you're looking for a little "manly passion"—in a Valentine's Day gift, that is—may I suggest these handsome English Art Deco cufflinks from the 1920's. Red enameled rugby stripes zip across the oval faces of these links. Bold, masculine and very stylish.
This week we shared a small collection of some of the Arts & Crafts cufflinks to be found in the LEO Design on-line shop. We end our presentation with this handsome pair of silver cufflinks.
Gothic and Medieval themes were commonly employed in Arts & Crafts design. These sterling silver octagonal shield-form cufflinks display two Crosses Pattée—a medieval cross of four equivalent members which widen from center to edge. In these cufflinks, one cross is hammered, the other is embellished with a small stylized botanical (like an Acanthus bud or Fleur-de-Lys). They would provide handsome punctuation on any wrist cuff.
One of the recurring design conceits which I've noticed in Arts & Crafts cufflinks is the combination of hammered metals with Greek Key meandering. Perhaps it's a way to "dress-up" the Arts & Crafts—a way to give the cufflinks a more-polished formality. Greek Classicism is used to provide a counter-balance to the more casual Arts & Crafts sensibility.
This modest pair of American Arts & Crafts cufflinks present hammered centers, encircled by Greek Key bordering. The silver-plated finish has warmed-up over the years, giving the cufflinks a soft, golden radiance.
One feature of Arts & Crafts design was the "revival" of earlier themes: mythology, literature, aesthetics or other venerable ideas. The Gothic was a perennial favorite source of inspiration for Arts & Crafts designers and artists. Perhaps it was Gothic's rustic handcraft. Perhaps it was the romance of gallant knights. Or perhaps it was the lofty ideals (of heaven) that The Gothic strove to represent.
This pair of sterling silver Arts & Crafts cufflinks boast a Gothic shield-form silhouette. The silver is rustically striated, producing a rough-hewn texture, reminiscent of tree bark. A
Though the LEO Design aesthetic begins with the Arts & Crafts movement, funnily enough, we do not find that many pairs of Arts & Crafts cufflinks. This week we will pull-together and share a short presentation of some of the Arts & Crafts cufflinks to be found in the LEO Design on-line shop.
This pair is a favorite! Sterling silver almond-form cufflinks are hand-planished and edged with a stylized Classical engraving. The combination of shape, soft hammering and gently-gleaming silver makes for a stylish pair of cufflinks for the modern man.
At LEO Design, we buy and sell a lot of handsome cufflinks. We find many from the Late Victorian era and even more from the Art Deco & Modernist eras. But we find precious few designed in the Arts & Crafts manner—which is the starting point of the LEO Design aesthetic. We've pulled-together a handful of Arts & Crafts cufflinks to share over the coming week. You can see these cufflinks (and many more of varying styles) in our on-line shop.
The Arts & Crafts aesthetic comprises a wide range of styles: from the chunky rustic to the delicately sophisticated. Sometimes these two aspects will be found on a single object.
Six months from today—on 23 July—the sun in the heavens will enter the zodiac constellation of LEO, which is, naturally, my favorite sun sign. This also means that we've recently entered the zodiac sign of Aquarius—which is the "polarity" (or polar opposite) of the LEO birth sign on the annual "wheel of zodiac signs." In Greek mythology, Aquarius provides a remarkable story. Tros, the King of Troy, had a beautiful son. He was so beautiful, in fact, that Zeus (the King of the Gods) wanted him for himself. One day, while the youth was tending his father's flocks upon Mount Ida (in Phrygia, modern day Turkey) Zeus took the form of a giant eagle and swooped-down to carry-off the young...
Though the days now are getting longer and longer—ever sooo s-l-o-w-l-y—we crave more and more light. And we'd like it now! The shortest day of the year is a month behind us, but the longest day of the calendar is still five months away. Let these wrought iron Brutalist candlesticks help you illuminate your home. They were made in Germany after World War II and may have been avant-garde altarsticks from a Modernist church. The square bobeches will accept either a round pillar candle or a square columnar candle. Heavy bases provide stability while the rugged aesthetic adds a touch of primitive charm to an Arts & Crafts of Modernist interior.
The Art Deco movement "coalesced" at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industiels Modernes in Paris in 1925. Technically, it was a seven month World's Fair designed by the French Government to promote the new Style Moderne in the decorative arts: interior design, furniture and home furnishings, glass and metalwork, ceramics, carpets and textiles and any other form of decorative art which expressed Modernism (rather than historicism). 15,000 manufacturers from 20 different countries exhibited their creations and 16 million visitors walked the halls to view the latest in art and design.
Paris was well known for its periodic "salons" but these were traditionally restricted to the so-called "fine arts": painting and sculpture.
When buying cufflinks in England, if they happen to be silver or gold, I will usually ask the collector for the year and city of the hallmark. He or she will dutifully pull out his loupe, grab his book of hallmarks, and squint into the glass—bringing the cufflink's hallmarks into focus. If he lets-out a wistful "Ahhhhh....," I know that the piece must have been hallmarked in Chester. It rarely fails. The town of Chester holds some kind of romantic spot in the heart of British jewelry collectors. Chester is located not far from Liverpool, in the industrial Northwest of England (which includes Manchester, Sheffield and Birmingham). Two thousand years ago, it was an important Roman fortress—and some of those...
When I buy cufflinks, my foremost consideration is aesthetics. Simply put, I am most drawn to their design, appearance and condition. Whether they are made of precious materials (or not) is a secondary (or tertiary) concern. If a handsome pair of cufflinks happens to be made of gold, I'll buy them.
In the very early Twentieth Century, cufflinks were still considered a quotidian and functional accessory. Most men wore cufflinks, at least on occasion. After World War One (and even more after World War Two), cufflinks use dropped precipitously—at which point cufflinks started to be associated with "fancy dress," not everyday male life.
Most years, during the first couple of weeks of January, we've always tried to squeeze-in as many friends as possible for small dinner gatherings. Mostly we wish to see them after the busy holiday season. But we also want to make the most of our Christmas decorations before we put them away for the year. What good becomes of hours of work decorating when only a small handful of people get to see them? Alas, this year, the coronavirus has quelled our plans to open our house too widely. And the time has come to take-down, box-up and stash. 120 years ago, the English Arts & Crafts "crumber," shown above, would have been a customary sight at the dining table. The two...
This week we shared a handful of handsome vintage cufflinks, recently unearthed five years after being packed-up when we closed our Greenwich Village shop. You'll find many more cufflinks in our on-line shop.
We end our parade of cufflinks with this interesting offering. An assembly of four Nineteenth Century South African "Six Pence" coins make for a unique (and rather old) pair of cufflinks.
We like to think of the various design movements as being discrete, clearly-defined and well-separated aesthetics—with crisp start and end dates. But an artistic movement, like life itself, does not observe such black and white mandates. Like any life, a design movement enters the world as a budding underdog amongst seasoned giants. With time and tenacity, small beginnings can become consequential innovations.
Sometimes an antiques dealer is required to buy something on aesthetics and instinct alone. S/he may come across an "unrecognized treasure" which she has never encountered previously. Sometimes he may not even be sure what it is! Nevertheless, something about the aesthetics or material or uniqueness of the item speaks to him. The item is purchased, wrapped-up and brought back to the shop! Such is the case with this pair of cufflinks, shown above, which I bought in England. They are clearly shamrocks (and clearly cufflinks). They appear to be assembled of some "re-purposed" object. Cutouts from a coin? Or from a piece of decorated metal trim? Perhaps a prehistoric motherboard? This is where my ideas hit the wall....
Any man who wears cufflinks—especially those who only wear them occasionally—knows that inserting the links takes a bit of skill and practice. The more a man does it, the easier it becomes (just like fastening button-fly jeans). Nevertheless, many men choose to avoid cufflinks altogether. "Snapping" cufflinks were invented in the early 1920's and they made dressing considerably easier. By this time, valets and manservants had already become a relic of the past. Snapping cufflinks came along at the perfect time! A snapping cufflink has two separate sides—one "male" and one "female"—which fit together. The two parts are separated (snapped apart) and inserted into the two sides of the cuff before the shirt is donned (which allows the man to use two hands...
I often find "silver-fronted" (or "gold-fronted") vintage cufflinks are England. It was a way for jewelers to present quality metalwork in an affordable manner. This goal—to make nicer things for less money—has always been the mission which drove industrial design and mass production. It's helpful to remember that sewn-on buttons were not common or ordinary (for most people) until the early Twentieth Century. First of all, buttons were historically expensive—and played a featured role in promoting the wealth and status of the button wearer. There were times and places when buttons were taxed as luxury indulgences. During the Nineteenth Century, shirt (and collar) studs started to be made with increasingly affordable materials, using mass-production methods, which dramatically lowered their cost...
This week we are showing a handful of handsome vintage cufflinks, recently unearthed—five years after being packed-up when we closed our Greenwich Village shop. See more cufflinks tomorrow and many more in our on-line shop. Simple and handsome—two of my favorite words—but hardly boring. The light machine-etched striping and bordering on these Art Deco cufflinks give them subtle sophistication, just enough embellishment to make them special. The light, shiny metal remains unidentified. There is no mark. They could be a novel tarnish-resistant base metal of the Thirties or possibly platinum (which was not always marked 100 years ago). These cufflinks would make an ideal "starter pair" for the wrist of a young graduate or a young man heading-off to the...
It's been nearly five years since we closed our Greenwich Village store and re-established ourselves in Pittsburgh. And, yet, we are still unearthing merchandise which had been hurriedly packed-up in January 2017—and has remained buried since then. This week, we'll be sharing a few of the (several dozen) cufflinks which have recently been excavated, polished, photographed and listed to our on-line store. When I think of Australian jewelry, opals usually spring to mind. The indelible scene from "Priscilla, Queen of the Desert," in which three drag queens (on a bus!) divert to Coober Pedy to replace their engine, dominates my impression of the jewelry industry Down Under. Redneck miners and Sydney sophisticates mix with disruptive consequences. But, apparently, there's more to Australian jewelry...
Today—the day after Christmas Day—is called "Boxing Day." It is a major holiday in England and in other British Commonwealth countries. "In the old days," servants (of which there were many) were expected to serve their employers (of which there were relatively few) on Christmas Day. Christmas was no holiday, no day off for the staff. Nor was it an easy day: ambitious meals, parties and other social events had to be planned, managed and cleaned-up after. Thus, "Boxing Day" was instituted, the day when staff would receive their "boxes" (presents) and have (most of) the day off. This brass cigarette box straddles the Arts & Crafts and the Art Deco movements. The interior is lined with wood and the...
Christmas is two weeks away! There is still time to order and receive your gifts by Christmas. But please act quickly! We always try to ship purchases on the day of receipt—if they arrive by Noon (Eastern). Orders received on the weekends (when the Post Office is closed) are posted Monday.
This sweet pewter Christmas ornament was hand-cast in California. It also makes a useful (and festive) candle snuffer.
If there's a reader in your life—a real, serious bookworm—perhaps this pair of "British Poets" bookends will fit the bill. They were made in the Thirties by Bradley & Hubbard (Meriden, Connecticut). They celebrate two English writers of note, Alexander Pope and Edward Young. Both men were influential in their time. Alexander Pope (1688-1744) had a difficult early life. As a Catholic, he was not allowed to go to school due to the English "Test Acts" which banned Catholics from teaching, attending college, holding public office or going to Catholic grade school. Little Alexander was homeschooled, for a time, and he later attended an illegal "underground" school. When a law was passed disallowing Catholics from living within 10 miles of London,...
The Feast of the Epiphany—also called "Three Kings' Day"—is on 6 January, four short weeks from today. The camel above might be asking, "When do we leave?" Well, actually, he probably should have left a month ago (if he were walking). The Gospel of Saint Matthew tells us that an unspecified number of "wise men" came "from the East," in search of the new king, having "observed his star at its rising." The Western convention of three magi probably derives from the fact that three gifts were presented to Jesus: gold, frankincense and myrrh. Their precise origin is not specified, though early Christians associated them with Zoroastrian priests from Persia (who were accomplished in their knowledge of astronomy). In recent centuries, the "Three...
Tonight is the eighth and final night of Hanukkah, the annual Jewish "Festival of Lights." The celebration commemorates the Maccabees victory over the Greeks and the miracle of the oil lamp. In the Second Century BC, the Jews found themselves under the thumb of the Hellenistic Seleucid Empire. The Greeks insisted that the Jews worship their god, Zeus, and they desecrated the Jewish Temple (the "Second Temple") by slaughtering pigs within it. Many Jews rebelled. But the Maccabees rose-up and took-on the Greek Army. Despite a small number of warriors, the Maccabees defeated the Greeks and reclaimed their temple. While cleaning-up their house of worship, they were disappointed that they only had enough lamp oil to last through one night of...
Dear me! It's the final day of November! Where has the month (or the year) flown? Here in Pittsburgh, we've already enjoyed little flurries—with just enough snow to whiten our garden. Winter will be here in three weeks. And Christmas four days after that. Dear me!
This little bronze sculptural grouping—a spotted doe and her fawn—are nicely cast and finished in a light verdigris patina. Though I am not certain, I suspect that they might be Japanese (from the Teens or Twenties). The mother remains watchful while her baby scratches blithely, oblivious to life's dangers. The fine detail, nice patina and the sensitivity of the sculptor's perceptive modeling all make the group a wonderful touch of nature brought indoors.
The Holidays are upon us! Christmas is only five weeks away! And while other retailers lament the collapse of "the supply chain," here at LEO Design we are brimming with terrific gifts—ready-to-ship. We have nothing "waiting-on-the-water." Nothing queueing off of California. I suppose this is one of the inadvertent strengths of the antiques trade: I have to buy it when I find it, not place an order for some future "ideal" delivery date. So place your orders; there's plenty of time to ship! And remember: the perfect time to buy an antique is when you see it. Many of our offerings are one-off items. Once it's sold, it's gone. This festive vintage biscuit tin, dressed in a vibrant Christmas red,...
The Gothic Movement, in my opinion, remains the high-water mark of architectural and decorative art history. The original movement spanned the 1100's into the 1500's. Later, in the mid 1700's, there was a Gothic Revival movement in England, followed by a bigger one (throughout the Western World) during the first three-quarters of the Nineteenth Century (sometimes called "Victorian Gothic"). When the Arts & Crafts Movement flowered (circa 1900 - 1910's), Gothic elements and themes were often adopted as decorative influences and embellishments. I am likewise smitten by these later revivals, too. These bronze-clad, Monk's head bookends, made in the 1910's or 1920's, tap a heavy vein of Gothic inspiration. In addition to the clerical reference, you'll find a triptych of gothic arches...
In America, the word "casket" often is associated solely with coffins, those large boxes used to bury human bodies. "Casket" has become a "six letter word." However, if you spend more than ten minutes shopping for antiques in England, you'll hear the term "casket" used in its broader, original sense: a (sometimes ornamental) box used to hold jewels, jewelry or other precious objets. Most often, a casket is rectangular, small (or modestly-sized), with a hinged covering. It may or may not have legs. Caskets are intended to protect and present something of high value—which may explain why some Americans began to conflate the words "casket" and "coffin." This bronze casket was made in the Teens or Twenties for "La Tausca," the...
The very best art is that which conveys the greatest effect with the seemingly simplest effort. Michelangelo Buonarroti conveys the entire Biblical story in David's right hand alone: relaxed at his side, loosely cradling a killer stone, yet potentially, undeniably powerful—if ever pushed into action. John Singer Sargent can capture—in one long brushstroke—the sheen and contours and tension of a woman's elegant dress, draped over underskirts, stretched over crossed legs, lighted from a window (elsewhere in the room). And the incomparable voice of Karen Carpenter—without vocal gymnastics and with no affectation—can effortlessly pierce our hearts with melancholy and longing while singing Superstar. The greatest artists know how to communicate great or complex or heartrending understanding in the most economical manner. Great...
Copper has always been one of my favorite materials. I love the soft, warm color. I adore the way it darkens richly with age—ever so s-l-o-w-l-y. And I cherish the way the soft metal accepts (and preserves) any evidence of the craftsman's handwork: hammering, threading, etching. There's a reason that this element is called "The Eternal Metal." It is stable, unchanging, and remains reliably useful. Copper has been popular in many aesthetic movements, including the Arts & Crafts school.
This brushed-copper 4" x 6" photo frame, made in Italy, has a wooden back and easel stand (which allows it to be displayed horizontally or vertically).
Set-back your clocks (one hour) tonight before bedtime. Daylight Savings Time ends in the wee hours of Sunday morning. Twice a year (that is, whenever we switch the clocks), the controversy is revived: should we even continue using Daylight Savings Time? The semi-annual arguments provide plenty of heat, though very little light (pardon the pun). One-third of Americans want to stick to Standard Time year 'round. One-third of Americans want to stick to Daylight Savings Time year 'round. And one-third of Americans either don't know or don't care. My conclusion: all three options have serious downsides. Personally, I can live with the changes of the clock, knowing that I will benefit from more light in Summer evenings and more...
When Queen Victoria's beloved husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861, Victoria (and the entire British Empire) went into mourning—an expression which manifested itself in fashion, jewelry and the decorative arts. Victoria remained in mourning for the rest of her life—forty years of black clothing and heavy, sombre jewelry (nothing frivolous or too jolly). This four-decades-long period of sobriety had a tremendous impact on the aesthetics of the day. Personally, I have always liked the heavy and serious, but handsome decorations of the day, mourning jewelry included.
The legendary Bard of Stratford-on-Avon created some of English Literature's greatest characters, tortured relationships, and dramatic scenarios. He coined numerous words and many clever turns-of-phrase. And he also spelled his name in a variety of ways. Some scholars claim that "William Shakespeare" (which is the contemporary standard spelling) has been spelled up to 80 different ways over the centuries. Even in his lifetime, Shakespeare signed his name with different spellings—including "Shakespere" and "Shakspeare." In the Eighteenth Century, "Shakespear" was believed to be most authentic. In the Romantic Mid-Nineteenth Century, "Shakspere" or "Shakspeare" (as shown in the photo) was considered most accurate, based on his most common signatures. On Shakespeare's tomb, in Holy Trinity Church in Stratford-on-Avon, the Bard's name is...
Autumn is here. As the days grow shorter—and the nights longer—we lose more and more natural light. We spend more time indoors, especially in the evenings, and need (and crave!) more light. It's no surprise, then, that we see a seasonal spike in lamp purchasing in the Fall and Early Winter months. Although we have sold hundreds of antique lamps over the years, I have also carried this line of handmade contemporary brass lighting (from New England) since our first year in 1995. This Library Table Lamp is one of our recent additions to the selection. It has a handsome, traditional style and would look equally handsome on a desk, on end tables, or even on a mantelpiece. It holds...
I've sold dozens of elephant bookends over the years. Elephants have always been a classic and popular theme in "bookshelf accoutrements." I guess I also like the idea of promoting the welfare of elephants living today—both those in captivity and those in the wild. At some point—I guess it started with the Feng Shui trend of the Oughts—a minority of customers would refuse to buy any elephant unless its trunk was turned upwards. "It is unlucky, otherwise," they would say. Now, in truth, when dealing with items made 100 years ago, there was nothing I could do to change the direction of an elephant's trunk. I would best remain happy to buy a nice elephant, regardless of the point of its proboscis....
Yesterday we shared a set of four glass and sterling coasters—heavy, ponderous, traditional. Today we share a lighter, cleaner, and (I would say) more elegant offering. The pierced sterling silver galleries provide crisp punctuation to the glass bases—which have been etched with an ultra-simple star pattern.
These Post WWII coasters have a Modernist sensibility—though their light appearance gives them a classic and timeless appearance. Click on the photo above to learn more about them.
Post War exuberance opened the door to an explosion of gracious entertaining in the late 1940s and 1950s. "Little Luxuries," like these pressed glass coasters with sterling silver rims, provided an elegant setting for a mixed drink in a highball or stemmed Manhattan glass. This set of four coasters are marked "Sterling" and with the name of the maker, "Frank M. Whiting - North Attleboro, Massachusetts."
On many an occasion I've seen these being sold as ashtrays (which they were not) and I've even seen (recently-produced) period films and television productions using these coasters to snuff-out a butt.
These handsome Scotty bookends were made just outside of Pittsbugh, in the little town of Verona, PA. Not much history can be found of the manufacturer, which is surprising, considering how well modeled, cast and finished these bookends are. The "coat" of each dog is deeply textured. The Argyle bases are a wonderful Scottish touch. The clean casting of the cast iron is superb. And the bronzy-copper finish, now aged, is rich and even. With this exceptional attention to detail, one might think that the company would have grown and become a bigger player during "The Golden Age of Bookends" (the 1920s and 1930s).
In 1880, French Modernist sculptor, Auguste Rodin, was commissioned to produce a monumentally-sculpted main door for a planned Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. The aesthetic theme and subject matter was left to Rodin's discretion, however, it was agreed that the door would be delivered five years later, in 1885. Rodin worked on the commission (on and off) for 37 years, until his death in 1917. Rodin, inspired by the great Italian Poet Dante Alighieri, selected the theme "The Gates of Hell," taken from The Inferno. He designed the model for a massive bronze door, embellished (on and around the door) with 180 cast figures (the smallest being about 6 inches tall and the largest a little over three feet). Rodin...
Reid, Murdoch & Company was founded by two Scotsmen in Chicago in 1853. They built a food supply empire—and championed the survival of "Mom & Pop" grocery stores from coast-to-coast. During their roughly 100 years in business, which was a time when large grocery chains gobbled-up (or displaced) small food stores, Reid, Murdoch insisted upon only selling to small retailers (not chains). They had a wide range of products, sold under the Monarch label, which gave small stores well-priced, quality items. Because their goods were sold in thousands of small shops nationwide, these small retailers enjoyed an economies-of-scale (a buying power) which allowed them to compete with the larger, more powerful chains. Jams, pickles, coffees, teas, cocoas—sold across the country—paid...
In 1894, John E. Hubley opened a metal casting workshop in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. His product line was metal industrial parts for electric trains. Come 1909, finding that business was slack, Hubley converted his production to cast iron toys and home furnishings objets: animals (especially dogs), bookends (many of them dogs), and doorstops (more dogs). Hubley also cast vehicles—from horse-drawn carriages (earlier on) to scale model automobiles (later in the company's life). At its peak, Hubley was the largest metal toy manufacturer in the United States. The terrier doorstop, shown above, is composed of two separate sand-cast iron parts (the left side of the dog's body and the right side of the dog's body). Each dog began its life as two...
Dante Alighieri was born in Florence in 1265. He is considered Italy's greatest poet and one of the most important writers in the Western Canon. His most important work, The Divine Comedy, was groundbreaking in its day—and remains an artistic touchstone to this day. Dante's depiction of Hell, Purgatory and Heaven (Inferno, Purgatorio, Paradiso) exercised wide influence on many writers and artists (painters, sculptors, musicians) who came after him—through which Dante affected the popular conceptions of the afterlife for centuries to come. He did not write in Latin, the language of the educated elites. Instead, he chose to write in the vulgate, the popular language of commoners (which allowed more people to read and understand his writings). The popularity of The Divine Comedy demonstrated...
The Barbizon School of French painting flourished in the Mid-Nineteenth Century (approximately 1830-1870), an important and innovative movement before Impressionism entered the scene (later in the century). The British painter, John Constable, was exhibited at the Salon de Paris in 1824. His landscapes, naturalism and manner of painting directly from nature was an antidote to the more formal "Academic" French painting that had been en vogue—and some of the younger French painters were inspired by his fresh, soft, Romantic Realism.
Simply elegant. This pair of American Art Deco "rolled gold" cufflinks are bold, handsome and understated. Rolled gold is a technique by which two layers of metal ( 14 karat gold on top and something less-expensive below) are bonded together under heat and pressure to create a strong, gold-topped "plied" metal. The rolled gold can be cut, shaped, formed and polished much like a sheet of solid gold could be.
These octagonal cufflinks, made by Krementz in Newark, New Jersey are fronted with gold and backed with gold-plate, too. Crisp lines add clean texture and interest to the fronts of these cufflinks—certain to make a good impression whether worn formally or casually.
The Art Deco period coincided with "The Jazz Age"—inextricably linking the two movements in the modern person's mind. Jazz, with its energetic, stimulating, and (sometimes) discordant rhythms, captured the energy and conflict and promise of its day. Likewise, Art Deco design captured the streamlined and modern and efficient energy of the machine age.
These handsome English Art Deco cufflinks—with snazzy black and white enameled faces—capture the fractured energy of the Twenties. A good deal of animation is contained within each little hexagon of this dynamic pair of links.
These English cufflinks—chromed and crossed with scarlet and soft grey enameling—simply scream "Art Deco!" The bright metal ground, punctuated with elegantly colored enameling, make for a handsome and lively pair of links. And the textured background adds yet another dimension of visual interest to the pair.
Snapping cufflinks were invented in the 1920's. This new invention allowed men to easily dress themselves—as it was during the Twenties that more and more men gave up their valets (by choice or financial circumstance). The concept behind the design is that the man could insert the cufflinks into the cuff before dressing, which allows him the ease of using two hands to manipulate the links. Once the links are inserted into their buttonholes, the man will then put-on the shirt, button-up the front, and simply snap each link closed.
The silvery faces of these English Art Deco cufflinks have a mixed-pattern which gives a somewhat "quilted" look to the links—or, perhaps, the look of an embroidered sampler.
Black, white and silver is such a nice color combination: clean, sophisticated, neutral. (And I suppose there are some who would argue that black, white and silver are not really colors!) The crisp juxtaposition of these colors increases the Art Deco elegance of these cufflinks—and makes them ideal for affordable evening wear.
In my opinion, color-blocking can often go quite wrong. Even the best of them (Mondrian, Rothko, Yves Saint Laurent) don't really appeal to me. But I do love these English Art Deco cufflinks, made in the Thirties! Maybe it's the sophisticated color combination: no primary colors! Or the understated cool tones of grey and blues. Or, perhaps, it's the small size—just a little touch of color-blocking—which is not a visual assault on my vision. I find these cufflinks very handsome, indeed. Sorry Piet (and Mark and Yves)! This is color-blocking done well.
These handsome Art Deco cufflinks, made in Providence, Rhode Island, in the Twenties or Thirties, are crafted of mixed metals—two shades which are possibly of some gold content. This mixing of metals, in a sculptural way, always reminds me of New York's Rockefeller Center, where "sculpted architectural decoration" is sometimes painted with rich metallic colors. And, of course, Rockefeller Center was designed and built during the peak of the American Art Deco movement.
The manufacturer, Walter E. Hayward in Providence, was founded in 1851—approximately 75 years before these cufflinks were made.
These English cufflinks capture "the lighter side" of the 1930s Art Deco movement. The diamond-form of the faces provide an elongated elegance while the thin embellishment—engraved and enameled striping—carries little visual weight. The pistachio and cream coloration is a nice Thirties touch, reminiscent of an ice cream cone in the Spring. Overall, these are an unusual and interesting pair of cufflinks—a "light touch" on the cuff.
Mother-of-Pearl has been a classic shirt button material for centuries—even before "sewn-on" buttons became popular. Here we have a Modernist Art Deco twist on the material: thick, chamfered slabs of Mother-of-Pearl topping "snapping" cufflinks from the Twenties. Snapping cufflinks were a new invention in the 1920's, which coincided with the dwindling employment of valets to dress wealthy or middle class men. With these new cufflinks, a man could easily dress himself. He would install both sides of each cufflink into the cuff before dressing—thus he was free to use two hands to negotiate the task. After putting-on the garment, he could simply snap-closed each cufflink. Ready-to-go! What this pair of cufflinks lacks in "graphic sex appeal," it makes up for...
These Art Deco cufflinks provide a little "wink" of fun on the cuff. The oval forms of these English cufflinks are decorated with royal blue and light grey enameling—arranged to covey an ever-so-slight swirl of motion around the perimeter. Clean lines, bold color and smooth motion are all hallmarks of the Art Deco movement.
The chamfered and crenellated bezel around these English Art Deco cufflinks are reminiscent of a wristwatch. And the central "mortise & tenon" element adds an interesting design detail. Otherwise, the cufflinks display a simple, white Mother-of-Pearl face—classic, clean and timeless. They are a handsome, straightforward and masculine accent providing closure to a cuff.
The navy blue, white, grey and turquoise repp-striped enameling on this handsome pair of English Art Deco cufflinks give them an official, perhaps regimental sensibility. The soft corners of the cufflinks, however, provide a gentle modification to the sharpness—which creates an interesting juxtaposition of the passive and the aggressive. The clean combination of layered colors also creates a very proper look.
There are very few totally new ideas—in life or in design. So, although change may sweep-in around us, sometimes we can get our bearings by looking backwards. (And, the more one knows history, the better one will be at recognizing contemporary change.)
This pair of English cufflinks, made in the Art Deco period, utilize a crisp "Moroccan Star" engraved upon their Mother-of-Pearl faces. While the star graphic was far from new (in the Thirties), its angular, precise and energetic form was perfectly-suited for use in Art Deco design. It provides an elegant accent—a modern take on an ancient symbol.
This pair of English Art Deco cufflinks, made in the Thirties, conveys modern tension through their unusual, triangular form. The concave white inner triangle seems tightly contained—compressed with tension—within a convex, distended outer aqua triangle. One triangle is pushed-in while the other triangle is pushed-out. And the clean aqua and white enameling provides an unexpectedly sophisticated (and nuanced) coloration to this handsome pair of cufflinks.
We are in the process of listing dozens of newly-acquired pairs of vintage cufflinks to our website's on-line shop. For the next several days, we'll be sharing some of the handsome Art Deco options, now available at LEO Design.
This pair of English Art Deco cufflinks perfectly captures the energy and style of the Art Deco movement. Chromed backgrounds convey the clean, industrial attitude of Art Deco. And the sleek bands of navy and royal blue enameling convey the forward motion and energy which Art Deco provided the world.
Anne Hathaway (1556-1623), wife of William Shakespeare, lived most of her life in and around Stratford-on-Avon, England. Her husband, the prolific playwright, spent much of his time working in London, leaving Anne in Stratford with their three children.
As a girl, Anne grew up in a spacious twelve room Tudor farmhouse, about a mile from Stratford-on-Avon. The house, now called "Anne Hathaway's Cottage," was built over 500 years ago and has been added-to over the centuries. It sat on a farm of 90 acres. The timber-framed house has a thatched roof and multiple fireplaces, the largest of which was used for cooking.
When there's a man around the house, things always seem go better when he's both handsome and useful. Likewise, these bookends will not disappoint.
A muscular, fully-rigged ship plows toward the viewer, beautifully-sculpted with energy and intent—the ship seems to leap forward, off the bookends. The iron castings have been dressed in a brass finish and supplemented with a verdigris patina. They would make a handsome and useful addition to your library, office or bookcase.
Three of my favorite things converge in this handsome object: owls, pine and Art Nouveau! Add to that a fourth thing: organization! This American Art Nouveau letter rack has it all. At center stands a handsome "Wise Owl"—the ancient symbol of knowledge and intellect. He perches on a pine branch, festooned with sprays of pine needles and clusters of pinecones. And he's framed, at center stage, within an Art Nouveau "whiplash" proscenium arch. The cast iron letter rack is finished with an aged brass patina, through which copper highlights peak through. It was made in the 1910's or 1920's by Judd Manufacturing in Wallingford Connecticut.
The Sun "entered" Libra last night at 7:21—making today the first full day of that gracious sunsign. Libra will continue through 22 October, at which point Scorpio takes over.
It is no coincidence that Libra begins on the day of the Equinox—the day on which the sunlight balances the darkness. Balance is at the heart of the Libra sunsign (which is symbolized by the Scales of Justice). Those scales come from Themis, the Ancient Greek personification of Divine Law (which was not to be confused with Human Law). She holds the balance of justice, as does her more modern incarnation, "Lady Justice" (seen in later Western cultures).
Let's end our exploration of "schoolboy" cufflinks with this interesting pair which displays a crest on one face and a diagonal slash of repp-striping on the other face. I am sure that the crest and stripes signify a particular unit, club, school or team—but who they are is still undetermined by me. Nevertheless, these handsome cufflinks from the Thirties provide in spades that quintessential "British Association" look. One can wear them with confidence, knowing that a certain American fashion designer has built an empire on "Faux British Aristocratic Pretension." At least this heraldry is real (for someone). Click on the photo above to learn more about them.
Repp stripes were (and are) highly-popular in England where they often represent a regiment, a school, a sports team or some other club or clan. Like tartan plaids in Scotland, members of the (originally all-male) groups would wear their colors with great pride.
Occasionally, I am able to identify the organization to which a particular repp stripe belongs. But, most of the time, I remain in-the-dark as to the pattern's origins. I also suppose that some repp stripe patterns are designed (or re-colored) by fashion designers, simply to look nice on a tie, a scarf or a pair of cufflinks—not because they are historically accurate renderings of a school's or team's colors.
By now, most students have trundled back to school. And, this year, some of them might be returning after more than a year away. Personally, I always loved the first day of school and was always excited to return. But, for others, September signaled the "Back-to-School Blues."
One of the mysterious inconsistencies of the English language—on different sides of the Atlantic—is the meaning of the term "public school." In England, where the term was coined, public schools are those fancy, expensive, private schools (open to students for a tuition fee). In America, "public schools" are those open to the wider public, paid-for by the public.
Among the "memorable sights" of Summer is that of a nicely-tanned wrist, emerging from a light blue shirt cuff, punctuated by a white cufflink such as the one shown above. White and blue are summery enough. Add a little tanned skin and the look is complete.
These Art Deco cufflinks, made in the 1920's, are centered with a woven mesh of "mixed metals." Around that, a bright white iris beams. Though they would look good in any of the twelve months of the year, during the summer, they can work their finest magic—showing-off your hard-won summer tan.
Having already experienced a few crisp nights and the shortening days, we realize that Summer won't last much longer. Here are a few ways to "take a last crack" at Summer, before it goes.
Taking a holiday along the seaside become fashionable in England in the late Eighteenth Century. By the early Nineteenth Century—as one will read in many of Jane Austin's novels—spending "the season" in a coastal resort town might be the highlight of a young person's life (whether dressed in "regimentals" or cotton Empire dresses). Spending time along the sea (and, perhaps, taking a dip) was considered healthful and refreshing—not to mention, a chance to let one's hair down.
Let's end our tour of Edwardian cufflinks with this interesting trio of sterling silver shirt studs—connected with a silver chain. Before World War I, sewn-on buttons had not yet become popular. Prince or pauper, a man needed shirt studs and cufflinks to fasten the plackets on his shirt. In even earlier times, men would tie or lace their shirts to close them (and many shirts were designed to be pulled-over the head). This set of fancy shirt studs bear a turquoise enameled fleur-di-lis on each sterling silver stud. One might find this interesting, given historical British antipathy toward the French (and their famous icon). But there has been a long history of fleurs-di-lis on English heraldry, especially on medieval...
The English cufflinks shown here are made of "Blue John," a rare semi-precious gemstone found in just one region of England—in the Blue John Cavern, under Treak Cliff in Castleton, Derbyshire, England. Blue John is a form of banded "fluorspar" with alternating purple/blue and yellow/white layers. It is believed that the name comes from the French term "Bleu-Jaune" (that is, "Blue-Yellow," a reference to the banded coloration). Even today, scientists have not figured-out what causes the unique and beautiful coloration. It is uncertain when the first veins of Blue John were discovered in Derbyshire, but the first record of mining the rare stone comes from a letter in 1766 (making reference to the leasing of the mines). Initial quarrying provided enough Blue John to...
La Belle Époque spread to North America where sometimes it was called "The Gilded Age." In America, this was a period of tremendous growth, industry and invention. But, like elsewhere, the financial fruits of this boom were concentrated near the top—amongst the "Robber Barons." In my old home of New York City, the beneficiaries of the Industrial Revolution had names like Astor, Morgan and Vanderbilt. They controlled transport, banking and various lucrative trades. In my new home of Pittsburgh (a real heavy-hitter during The Gilded Age) names like Carnegie, Frick, Mellon or Schwab might ring a bell, even today. It has been argued that Pittsburgh "built America" during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. In fact, one neighborhood in...
The Edwardian Age was a time of handsome style, obvious socio-political awakenings, and the last few years of innocence before The Great War and the turbulent decades to follow. This week, we'd like to share a few offerings from the Edwardian cufflink collection at LEO Design. The British Empire expanded greatly during the Victorian Age. The World—and its peoples—were viewed as resources to utilize (if not exploit). And England, like other powerful countries at their strongest, was not shy about stepping-up to seize-the-moment. During the late Victorian and Edwardian periods, England controlled so many far-flung countries that it was said that "The sun never sets on the British Empire." I do not single-out England as a lone villain in this endeavor. Other...
Let's end our collection of Art Nouveau cufflinks with this understated—but nevertheless handsome—pair of Edwardian English Art Nouveau cufflinks. A scrolling botanical bas relief covers half the surface area of these golden, elongate-hexagonal cufflinks.
"Edwardian" usually refers to the period of Edward VII's reign: from 1901 (when his mother, Queen Victoria, died) to 1910 (when he died). Edward, nearly 60 when he was crowned, was a fashionable and socially-prominent monarch who lived in a "modern" age—that is, a period when information, news and photo images were able to be widely and quickly distributed. Thus, his sartorial choices and leisure behaviors were quickly disseminated around the world—where they could make an immediate impact and be promptly emulated.
Enameled cufflinks are probably my favorites. And, while most of our collection of enameled cufflinks are from the Art Deco period, I occasionally acquire an earlier pair (from the Art Nouveau period) or a later pair (from the Modernist period). Enameling is the process of laying glass powder upon metal and then heating it to the point where the glass powder melts into molten glass. Upon cooling, the "enameling" is simply a layer of glass (often colored) lying upon a base of metal (sometimes engraved in a process called guilloché). Enameling provides a rich, luxurious surface and allows for a creative explosion of colorful graphic design. Fine, machine-turned engraving (beneath the enamel) provides a whole new dimension of pattern...
At the time that these cufflinks were made—around the Turn-of-the-Century—pearls were the rarest, most mysterious, and most expensive of "gemstones." At this point, cultured pearls had not been developed. And, while these cufflinks are not made of real pearls, they are made of Mother-of-Pearl (and, with their soft luminescence and iridescence, are highly reminiscent of the coveted precious globules).
From Biblical times, pearls have been lauded as "more precious" than other objects. Pearls were referenced in numerous parables, lessons and other maxims. And, let's not forget, "The Pearly Gates" did not get their nickname for no reason.
For a few days, we would like to share some of our Early Twentieth Century Art Nouveau cufflinks—from England and from America.
This pair, probably American, have a decidedly Eastern European Secessionist design—in the form of hexagonal, "riveted" shields. What they lack in color, they more than compensate for in design-punch and style. Imagine them—handsome and proud—on your shirt cuffs.
The sapphire—amongst the treasured "Cardinal Gemstones"—has been highly-valued for millennia and is the birthstone bestowed upon those born in September. Indeed, there is something immaculate, heavenly and, well, divine about the sapphire—a pristine presence somehow elevated above earthly matters and concerns. Their crisp purity reminds us that perfection is, indeed, possible. Sapphires are made of corundum, made blue by the presence of iron and titanium. Other colors of sapphires can be found, too, depending upon the impurities found within it: yellow, purple, orange, grey or black. Some stones have two colors (side by side) and corundum without any impurities is clear. Red corundum (colored with chromium) is called a ruby and they are sometimes mined near sapphires Sapphires are found...
Let's end our procession of Modernist cufflinks with these understated—but interesting—sterling silver accessories. They were made shortly after World War Two by Simmons, a jeweler in Attleboro, Massachusetts. Simmons was founded in 1873—in the middle of the Victorian Era—and, thus, was well-aware of that earlier design period. Although the size, shape and functional mounting of the cufflinks is clearly Modernist, the scrolling botanical engraving is a tip-of-the-hat to Simmons's Victorian roots. But the engraving is not a "direct lift" of Nineteenth Century foliate engraving. Instead it is adapted, loosened-up and enlarged, making it a clearly-Modernist embellishment.
The Modernist Movement—like many design movements before it—was known to "lift" aesthetic inspiration from history and the work of earlier designers. Modernist designers and craftsmen (like all artists) looked-back for historical, literary and cultural elements which could be "revived" (or adapted) for their contemporary works. I've sold Mid-Century pottery inspired by archeological discoveries—including vases decorated to emulate early paintings from the caves of Lascaux, France. Many Modernist ceramics forms are inspired by the utilitarian objets (jugs, urns, bowls) uncovered at sites in Egypt, Greece, or Mesopotamia (which explains the abundance of jug handles on so many Modernist vases). Ancient shields, architecture and other graphic elements were adapted and freely-utilized in Modernist decor. It's all part of the same "Cycle of Design" from the beginning...
These Czech Modernist cufflinks have seen quite a bit of dramatic history! They were made in the 1920's, during the period known as The First Czechoslovak Republic. After World War One, and the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1918), several former portions of the Empire were cobbled together to create a new country—and the name "Czechoslovakia" was born. After 1933, Czechoslovakia was the only remaining functioning democracy in Central Europe. But it was not to last. In 1938, Germany took Sudetenland, the "German Region" of Czechoslovakia. Other regions were ceded to Hungary and Poland. Thus began The Second Czechoslovak Republic which was only to last six months. In 1939, the Nazis took the rest of the young country; from 1939 to 1945, Czechoslovakia ceased...
"In the old days," silversmiths like Paul Revere worked hard to avoid any sign of hammer marks in their wares. They would use increasingly fine "peens" from their collection of hammers to create a perfectly-smooth, mirrored finish to their silver works. The best items were devoid of any hammer marks or imperfections. At the turn-of-the-Twentieth-Century, Arts & Crafts artisans embraced a different point of view. Prominent hammer marks were now encouraged as part of the decoration—providing evidence of the human handwork that went into creating such a piece. The contemporary cufflinks, shown above, are fashioned of hand-hammered sterling silver. The only embellishment to be found on their large, Modernist faces is the skillful hand-hammering which catches the light—and reminds us that they...
"Celtic Knots" refer to the interlacing, never-ending "braid-work" in the art and craft of the Irish, Scottish, Cornish and Welsh. Although earlier examples of such "plaited" design themes are found in other places—early Roman mosaic work, Byzantine stonework, Scandinavian woodcarving, and other European folk craft—the Celts embraced the style and vigorously adapted it to their own culture. After Christianity was introduced to the Celts (in the Fourth Century AD), Celtic-style plaiting (and other design) was incorporated into every sort of religious works: architecture, stonework, woodcarving, even illuminated manuscripts. In the mid Twentieth Century, when these cufflinks were made, there was a powerful movement in Celtic lands to revive and promote the ancient, native folk culture—especially as a means of differentiating themselves from the dominant English...
Two chunky slabs of "coffee & cream" marble make for a substantial pair of Modernist (nearly Brutalist) cufflinks from the 1950's or 1960's. The goldtone bevelled settings, which handsomely frame the ingots, were patented in 1949. These cufflinks perfectly illustrate the evolution of cufflink design after World War Two—when Art Deco began to take a back seat to the weighty minimalism of Mid-Century Modern. Men's tailoring—including ties, cufflinks and jacket lapels—became wider, thicker and heavier.
As we discussed two days ago, "Modernism" began in the late Nineteenth Century and included Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts, and the Art Deco movements. Modernism came to full fruition with the Mid-Century Modern period after World War II, the 1950's through the 1970's. The handsome cufflinks, shown above, are Modernist—but with the streamlined, sculptural Art Deco influences which suggested the "Jet Age Industrialism" to come. They were made in Rochester, New York by Hickok.
Aage Weimar (1902-1986) was a Danish Modernist jeweler known for his bold (and sometimes Brutalist) designs. These striking, sculptural cufflinks were made in the 1940's or 1950's of 830 silver. Northern European Modernist cufflinks—those from Scandinavia, Finland or Soviet Russia—tend to exhibit strong, sculptural forms, often in simple silver or gold vermeil (that is, silver coated with a layer of gold). These Danish cufflinks, though uncomplicated, still serve-up a bold aesthetic punch.
This week we'll be sharing a selection of Modernist cufflinks, recently added to our on-line collection. Please click here to see our full range of cufflinks—from Victorian to Modernist. One often thinks of "Modernist" as concurrent with "Mid-Century." But Modernism actually began during the end of the Nineteenth and beginning of the Twentieth Centuries. Dr. Christopher Dresser was pushing Space-Age boundaries in England during the 1880's. L'Art Nouveau—"The New Style"—was well underway by the Turn-of-the-Century. And the Bauhaus School (as well as Art Deco) flourished between the World Wars (1919-1939). These cufflinks, made in the Twenties, are clearly "Cubist" in form. Cubism began in the first decade of the Twentieth Century, two decades before these cufflinks were made. A faceted rock crystal punctuates...
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
Let's end our parade of sunshine-inspired cufflinks with this interesting and unusual pair from the late Art Deco period. Triangles of 9 karat gold are engraved with concentric circles (at center), from which radiating "sunbeams" emanate outward.
They were hallmarked in Chester, England in 1958—a bit late for the Art Deco period—though there were still a few designers working in that inter-war style (carmakers, furniture crafters and cinema designers, for example).
