JOURNAL — Metalwork RSS
Some things do get better! Proof: "It's a dog's life." When the phrase was first coined, seemingly in the 16th Century, the phrase referred to a life of misery, hunger and difficulty—a wretched existence. At that time, most dogs were hardly coddled. They were probably kept out-of-doors, in the cold, heat or rain. They were fed on scraps, perhaps eating only what they could find for themselves. And they were likely to be worked hard: as shepherds, ratters or pulling a dog cart. "A Dog's Life" was not luxurious, indulgent or pampered. Other phrases—"dying like a dog," "dog tired," "going to the dogs," or "dog eat dog"—all have similar, unhappy connotations. Today, however, especially amongst people under 50, "A Dog's Life" connotes...
The Dog Days of Summer - Part 4
At the time that these cast iron bookends were made, in the 1920's, one of Hollywood's biggest celebrities was Rin Tin Tin, a German Shepherd dog who starred in 27 films, making him a world-famous star. The male German Shepherd had been rescued on a French WWI battlefield by American soldier Lee Duncan. Back in The States, Duncan found work for his new pet whose career took-off—simultaneously making the German Shepherd breed very popular in America. In the Nineteenth Century, German farmers would selectively breed dogs for herding sheep. They bred for strength, speed, intelligence, a keen sense of smell, and enough aggressiveness to protect the flock from outside predators. Each village had developed a different type of dog, each...
The Dog Days of Summer - Part 3
The Russian Wolfhound—more commonly called the "Borzoi" since 1936—was brought from Mongolia to Russia in the second half of the 13th Century. It is a variety of "sighthound" which means it was bred to hunt by sight (rather than smell) and it was developed for periodic bouts of speed (rather than endurance). The name "Borzoi" is derived from the archaic Russian word for "speed" as the dogs can sprint up to 40 miles per hour. Russian aristocracy used Borzois to hunt prey, including wolves. They were so beloved of the Tsars, that it was not permitted to buy one—they could only be received as gifts. Properly socialized, Borzois can make suitable family pets. Some people consider them "cat like" for they...
The Dog Days of Summer - Part 2
We are spending the last few days of August celebrating the "Dog Days of Summer." Enjoy our "Parade of Dogs" as we trot towards the cooler days of September.
Though simply sculpted, this "bird dog" sculpture captures Man's Best Friend as loyal, friendly, and attentive. He's cast in brass, then finished with an aged verdigris bronze patina. He'll stand devotedly upon your desk, shelf or bedside.
The Dog Days of Summer - Part 1
Though we are—technically—well past the official "Dog Days of Summer," several more hot, sultry and lazy days of August remain. The Dog Days (typically 3 July - 11 August) were recognized (and named) by astronomers thousands of years ago. They represent the days when the brightest star, Sirius (the "Dog Star"), appears on the horizon and rises in the night sky. Coincidentally, this period is also the hottest month in the Northern Hemisphere. In Ancient Egypt, the rise of Sirius corresponded with the annual flooding of the Nile—an important life-sustaining event for Ancient Egyptians. In Ancient Greece, Sirius was blamed for the hot weather and unpredictably sudden thunderstorms (poetically described in Homer's Iliad, written in the 8th Century BC). Later,...
"That Good Pittsburgh Candy"
In 1841 Pittsburgher Phillip Reymer (then 22) and R.J. Anderson opened a candy shop, "Reymer & Anderson" at 39 Wood Street where they produced and sold "dipped candies." Reymer & Anderson was the first confectioner in Pittsburgh. Within a few years, Reymer bought-out his partner and was joined by his brothers, Jacob and Harmar. The company was re-christened "Reymer & Brothers." The devastating American Civil War, in the first half of the 1860's, was very good for Reymer's business. It became customary for area families to ship tins of Reymer's candies to their sons, brothers and husbands who were off fighting the war. Soon, customers across the nation were shipping Reymer's tins, filled with "That Good Pittsburgh Candy," to their favorite...
Protecting the Home Front
During World War II, Americans tightened their belts for the war effort, sacrificing certain "common luxuries" like butter, sugar, silk stockings, tires & gasoline, long dresses, and all manner of metal & rubber goods. Citizens realized that giving-up such commodities at home—inconvenient as it was—meant that these products could be diverted to help fight despots and authoritarianism abroad. There was also a zeal for self-sufficiency blowing across the nation; victory gardens were planted and civilians studied basic first aid and home nursing. The Gus J. Schaffner Company, in Pittsburgh, developed home first aid kits including the "Little Doc" shown above. The original first aid supplies, which came in the chest, are now gone, probably used-up over the years. But the Army...
Stay Cool, Take it Slow...
As we creep through he hottest days of Summer, a timely reminder: stay cool, take it slow. This Edwardian English brass tortoise has all the right moves. Place him on a shelf, windowsill or stack of papers on your desk. He'll have barely moved when you come back.
XAIPE!
"Xaipe!" is the Ancient Greek salutation that means "Rejoice!" It was used as a hearty greeting or as a appeal of "Godspeed" to a person heading-off on a dangerous mission. While the pronunciation varied over the millennia (Ancient vs. Modern Greek), one could roughly pronounce the word as "Kai-rrhay" (with a softly rolled "R"). This British Arts & Crafts tray is fashioned of hand-hammered brass. A circle of "bosses" surround a central dragon (who appears Welsh or Celtic). I found the piece in the South of England. I know that the piece is British, however, the rest is just conjecture. I suspect that this piece was made for a member of a special academic, military or social organization. The dragon...
"Transitional"
In the decorative arts, the term "transitional" is sometimes used to describe a piece which falls between two different aesthetic schools—or exhibits characteristics of both periods. Although specific decorative arts movements (and schools of fine art) appear to express a coordinated and well-unified aesthetic, in truth, it is sometimes only years later that academics and connoisseurs are able to define and label a particular school of design. Take the Art Deco Movement for example. The movement coalesced with the Paris Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in 1925—a "World's Fair" of sorts which showcased the day's cutting edge of design and technology. The "new look" presented at this show—modern, streamlined, progressive, fast and industrial—marked a clear aesthetic...
Who's Laughing?
We're three months away from the 2022 General Election! I'm not sure (yet) if this ornery little donkey is laughing or screaming. (Check-back in November!) As for me, I'll be spending Election Day volunteering as a poll worker at my neighborhood site, a short two blocks away from my home. It's at the Soldiers & Sailors' Memorial Hall, here in Oakland (Pittsburgh's "second city"). It's a long day: 6:00 am until 9:00 pm (sometimes 10:00 pm, depending on how quickly we can close-down the machines and organize the paperwork). Now I know why Election Night returns trickle-in, especially from busy, urban districts. The Soldiers & Sailors' Memorial Hall is a heroic, Beaux-Arts building, designed in 1907 (the same year my house was...
Tea Time!
I found this tea tray in the countryside of Central England, about three hours north of London. I immediately suspected that the tray was not English Arts & Crafts. But it did have a certain Arts & Crafts era sensibility and period quality. It had a handsome, botanical graphic design, had been beautifully tooled, and was nicely finished—with its rolled edges and traces of the original silver-plating (over copper). I suspect that it was made in British Colonial India, also known as the time of the British Raj. With a nice blend of Asian and Western design, it was possibly used in an English household in India. The metalwork is exquisite and the aesthetics of the "botanical vocabulary" create a fresh twist on...
Wining at the Table
For many, Heaven-on-Earth is a nice glass of wine at dinnertime. Some people wait all day for this moment! But that ring of red on the tablecloth (or, worse, on the woodwork) can really take the sheen off a wonderful meal. While any coaster (or paper towel) will do, why not up-your-game? This handsome English wine coaster is ready-for-action. A slab of English oak, enhanced with turned, concentric rings, is surrounded by a pierced and silver-plated brass "gallery." It was made in England between the wars. Elegant and useful, this wine coaster will provide style and protection the next time you pop a cork.
A Parade of LEOs - VIII
Yesterday we discussed the French animalier par excellence, Antoine-Louis Barye—the great animal sculptor of the Romantic Era. Let's end our "Parade of Lions" with this tribute to the master: his "Walking Lion" sculpture of 1840. In truth, the lion shown is not one of Barye's originals. Indeed, it was made in America after the work of Barye—and some eighty years later. It is a bronze-clad sculpture, meaning that a thin coating of bronze is electro-plated over a "composite" form, cast from a mould. Yes, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. However, that imitation does not always come easy. The manufacturer (possibly Armor Bronze in New York City) first had to create a mould to cast the composite underlayer. And, as...
A Parade of LEOs - VII
Many artists develop a theme to their work, sometimes spending their entire careers focused on a very narrow field of subject matter. One such artist was the Parisian animalier Antoine-Louis Barye (1795-1875). An animalier is an artist who creates animal sculptures. Barye is one of the greatest. He started his "working life" as a goldsmith apprentice, under his father. He later worked in the studio of Napoleon's goldsmith. But animals—sculpting animals—was his true artistic love. Barye would spend hours at the zoo sketching wild animals in their natural "attitudes." Eugène Delacroix (1798-1875) was Barye's artistic contemporary and his naturalistic sketches of wild animals inspired Barye to capture the energy and personality in his renderings of his subjects. Barye would then...
A Parade of LEOs - VI
This fabulous feline is not your everyday tin lion. Indeed, the incredible detail of the sculpting and casting—not to mention the wonderful painting—raises this LEO to a higher plain. The coiled energy of this recumbent lion, as he scrutinizes his domain, imbues a sense of of life to this beautifully-rendered sculpture. Made in the Twenties or Thirties, of finely-cast spelter, an alloy comprised primarily of zinc.
A Parade of LEOs - V
One might consider bookends a somewhat mundane form of art—if one considers bookends "art" at all. Bookends were manufactured in quantity, made of a very humble material (often cast iron), sold for modest prices, and put to work at a highly-utilitarian task. What the bookend makers—the foundries—often got right was their success in hiring wonderful sculptors to create the original models for their castings. Some of these sculptors are anonymous. But others were allowed (or encouraged) to sign their works. What the foundry owners understood (perhaps an acknowledgement of their European artistic roots) was that a little extra money spent in the beginning (the model-making) would pay huge dividends for years to come—for the entirety of the production run.
A Parade of LEOs - IV
What this little bronze lion lacks in size or fierceness, he makes-up for in style and character. He was cast of polished bronze, in California. On this tummy, the word "Courage" is imprinted. He'll be a constant reminder that size does not equal bravery. And he'll serve as a loyal companion on your desk, mantelpiece or bedstand.
A Parade of LEOs - III
Most tin or spelter or lead animals (painted or unpainted) from the Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries were part of a larger grouping of animals: a circus, a farm, a zoo, or a Noah's Ark menagerie. This lion, handsome though he is, remains circumspect about discussing his former companions—who are now, sadly, lost to time and playful trauma (at least to us). The painting on this lion is pretty good. Quality of painting is one of the hallmarks by which one can gauge how well-made a toy sculpture is. It helps to remember that these creatures were intended as toys—and liable to be roughly handled—and, therefore, most casting and painting were cursory, at best. Fast production and minimal finishing resulted in...
A Parade of LEOs - II
Yesterday we presented a bronze sculpture of a heraldic Lion Statant Guardant—standing with four paws firmly planted on the ground and turning his head to look at the viewer. Today we show a Lion Couchant Affronté, a lion on his belly, positioned to confront the viewer directly. The discipline, art and science of heraldry requires each and every classic position (the "attitudes") to be properly named and properly used.
This pair of bookends, from the Twenties, provide big attitude despite their modest size. They are made of cast iron, finished with a rich bronze patina.
A Parade of LEOs - I
We celebrate the first few days of LEO with a "parade" of leonine beauties—now in-stock at LEO Design. We celebrate the first few days of LEO with a "parade" of leonine beauties—now in-stock at LEO Design. Lions are, perhaps, the most "lionized" of all the animals. They symbolize courage, beauty, royalty and leadership. Unsurprisingly, lions have been used in the heraldry of many cultures in many times. Heraldry is the system of using, arranging and regulating the aesthetic elements in crests, coats-of-arms, military insignia and other symbolic "heraldic" decoration. Even lions themselves are classified by the position they assume in such heraldry. Each differing position is called an "attitude." A lion standing on his hind legs is a...
Welcome, LEO!
Today is the first full day of LEO—acknowledged King of the Zodiac! The Sun entered "LEO airspace" overnight and it will remain there through 22 August. The LEO zodiac sign holds much significance for us. The shop, as you can see, was named after the regal lion. And the store was built and opened during the LEO period (though I gave myself a "short day" on my birthday). And LEO marks the highpoint of Summer. Who doesn't like Summer (at least a little bit)? LEOs are known for their energy, adventure, gregariousness, their generosity and their affinity for the limelight. They love being in-charge, especially if they have a First Mate close at hand (and especially a loyal Taurus)....
The End of Cancer
Although I'd much prefer to announce the end of the dreadful disease, my observation today is far less significant: today is the last day of the sun sign Cancer. Having no crabs in current stock, I have opted for their watery neighbors instead—seashells. This assortment of eight different seashells were made of cast pewter in Italy. Each is slotted to hold a place card at table. They can also be used to hold a note, photograph, business card or descriptive label. And they would provide sophisticated punctuation at your next dinner party's table setting.
It's SOOO Hot!
Whether you live in London or Lisbon or Lubbock...it's soooo hot! What would be nicer than taking to the water—sailing across a cooling bay or mountain lake? Step aboard! Certainly, your generous host needs a little gift, a token of your gratitude. Give the captain a pair of "Sailor's Decision Makers": a pair of cast pewter tokens which can be flipped to make your choice—"Sail" or "Get Off the Yacht."
Squirrelly
When I lived in New York City, I held a much different attitude about squirrels than I do today. Yes, back in the city, I did acknowledge that squirrels are large, climbing rodents. But they seemed to me a benign part of the landscape—a natural, "living accessory" whose playful charm was to be observed and enjoyed in parks and in trees. And, certainly, squirrels were worthy of artful commemoration in ceramics, wood and metalwork. Today, living in an old house in the city of Pittsburgh, these charming little devils have lost a bit of their charm. They will conquer any bird feeder, leaving our feathered friends starving. They chew wooden fences and house trim—and will invade the hidden crawl spaces and nest,...
Fair Winds and Following Seas...
Many cultures have their own fond sayings and expressions of good tidings. Sailors are no exception. The phrase, "Fair Winds and Following Seas" is used by sailors to wish a fellow sailor the best of luck—similar to the entreaty "Godspeed." It's a blessing, of sorts, a wish that the fellow sailor should have the best possible sea conditions for an easy and successful journey, usually expressed before an important undertaking. Literally, it's an appeal for perfect sailing wind and smooth waters—not choppy or difficult waves into which one must pound and struggle. Although "Fair Winds" can be used as a general naval salutation, its wistful and poetic nature makes it especially appropriate when expressed before a critical departure: when a sailor is being...
The Sincerest Form of Flattery
I found this oval trinket box in Oxford, England. I am not convinced that it is English. And it is likely from the 1950's (not the 1850's). But I picked-it-up anyway. The weight, useful size, and beautiful scrolling foliate decoration made it a handsome piece—a decent replica of a finer piece (and at a much more affordable price). It is cast of spelter and finished with a plating of silver. It is lined with a flocked red interior and is the perfect size for presenting or safeguarding something of value. Three "clues" provide the giveaway that the box is from the Mid-Twentieth Century: the spelter base metal (rather than copper, brass or bronze), the seaming at the long ends of the...
Tea Time!
It's difficult to think of an England without tea. But it was only about 400 years ago that tea began to be imported to Europe on a regular basis. In the 1500's, Portugal first made contact with China. Missionaries and traders were introduced to the "bitter red beverage" which was popular with wealthy Chinese. Small quantities were brought back to Europe, perhaps for a monarch or aristocrat, after which the popularity of tea sparked a huge tea-trading scramble—initially in Portugal, the Netherlands and (a little later) England. History tells us that Catherine of Braganza (Portugal) brought tea with her when she arrived to marry King Charles II of England. And, boy, did it take off from there! During the 18th...
Summer Reading
Summer's here—the heat, the humidity, the bugs—and, boy am I glad that I will not be traveling this holiday weekend! Instead, I'll pretty much carry-on with my regular routine: clean and shoot new merchandise, organize the papers on my desk, maybe wash and vacuum my car. And one more thing! I'll try to spend a few hours reading during the day. At the moment, I have two books-in-process on my nightstand (atop two dozen more, yet to be started). The only problem is that I read at night, after climbing into bed. I can usually get through a couple of pages before I find myself getting drowsy, reading and re-reading (and re-reading) the same line over and over (and over)...
98 Years Ago Today
98 years ago today . . . this chauffeur's badge expired. The copper badge—to be worn in the hat of a New York chauffeur—was issued in 1923 and it expired on 1 July 1924.
New York required professional drivers to be licensed. A distinction was made between a chauffeur and a "hack" (from the British term "hackney driver"—a throwback to the days of horse-drawn carriages for hire). A licensed chauffeur might drive for a single private client or for the owner of a company with a fleet of cars. Chauffeurs were trained to drive safely, defensively, and were expected to offer a higher level of customer service and elegance in their deportment.
Locked-Up
The form and coloration of this Victorian English locking money box is time-honored, indeed. For decades, this has been the classic look for a British lockbox. Inside, a removable, lift-out tray provides three separate coin receptacles, each of which can be covered with a hinged or sliding lid. Today, this box would be useful for storing jewelry, keys, office supplies, or important ephemera like photos, cards and tickets. It would also be a fine place to keep money. The box comes with its original, working key.
Nice 'n' Tidy
The Victorians loved their accoutrements—highly-specialized devices, serving pieces or utensils created for every conceivable food or edible. Sardines were not exempt. A fancy Victorian meal (of this decidedly humble provision) might have utilized a fancy sardine dish like the one shown here. A handsome glass tray would hold the sardines—neatly lined-up like soldiers—covered with a sliver-plated lid and placed within a silver-plated carrier. A "sardine finial" serves as the knob for easy lifting. This sardine dish was made by James Howard & Company, founded in Sheffield, England in 1861. In our modern world, where sardines more commonly go straight from tin to plate, a sardine dish like this makes a great place to keep keys at the door, business cards...
The Mailboat Cometh
In 1950, US households received twice-daily mail delivery. Businesses, especially in cities, might receive three deliveries a day. Written addresses were checked and any mistakes were cheerfully corrected. And postal drop boxes were emptied multiple times a day—even on Sundays. 72 years later, our experiences (and expectations) regarding the Post is quite degraded. And it's a shame: only can a large and well-managed system (like a USPS) deliver quick, safe and inexpensive delivery. "In the olde days..." some mail might have arrived by boat, from overseas or to remote, watery locations. The English hand-hammered brass letter holder, shown above, would have hung on a Twenties British wall—holding mail (either incoming our outgoing). The Art Deco lettering indicates a post war...
Countdown to Father's Day - XIII
As we countdown the days 'til Father's Day, we have been sharing some Handsome Gifts ideas sure to please any Dad. For the monumental Dad: a pair of Neoclassical bookends commemorating America's 16th president. Or, rather, a pair of bookends which commemorate the Lincoln Memorial—which commemorates the 16th president. Begun in 1914, with funds approved by Congress, the Beaux-Arts, Greek Doric Temple was designed by architect Henry Bacon and took six years to build. The exterior, built of Colorado marble, is surrounded by 36 fluted columns representing the 36 states of the Union at the time of Lincoln’s death. The columns (as well as the exterior walls) slope inward ever so slightly—to avoid the optical illusion of the building “bulging” at the...
Countdown to Father's Day - XII
For the "cowboy" Dad: a cast bronze cowboy hat. Though it was designed as a decorative paperweight, it can also be used to hold a small supply of clips, some business cards (in the brim) or one's index card "to do list." Upside down, it could hold even more: jelly beans, rubber bands or dog treats.
Countdown to Father's Day - X
For the Super-Cool Dad: a cast bronze polar bear sculpture, wonderful to hold or display on the desk. The Polar Bear, Ursus maritimus, was given its name because it is considered a "maritime mammal"—one who lives its life in, on and around the sea. In the case of the polar bear, it spends most of its life on floating sea ice, hunting for its favorite food: tasty seals. Alas, because of global warming—and the melting of sea ice—polar bears have been quickly losing their hunting grounds. Today, the polar bear is considered vulnerable to extinction. The male polar bear is called a "boar" and he can weigh over 1500 pounds. Females ("sows") top-out around 800 pounds. The species is remotely...
Countdown to Father's Day - IX
For the cultured Dad: a bronze-clad bas relief plaque of Hungarian composer and pianist, Franz Liszt. Liszt was fascinated with his father's playing of the piano and string instruments. By seven, his father was giving him lessons. By eight, little Franz was composing rudimentary music. His talent caught the attention of music patrons who sponsored his studies, as a youngster, in Vienna. When the 16 year old Franz's father died, his family moved to Paris where the boy needed to work to help support his family. He taught piano lessons and found himself racing around the large city to keep his far-flung appointments. Working long, irregular and late hours, Franz began drinking and smoking—habits he would maintain throughout his life.
Countdown to Father's Day - VIII
For the Dad who labors: a pair of heavy cast iron bookends from the McKeesport Steel Casting Company, made in the 1920's or 1930's. The foundry, on the outskirts of Pittsburgh, was one of the hundreds of steel mills, metalworks plants or fabricators which dotted the banks of the Steel City's three rivers: the Monongahela, the Allegheny and the Ohio. (Why these industrial companies needed to be placed right along the rivers could be the topic for another, more depressing, journal entry.) Most of the foundry's output was far more industrial—less "sexy"—in nature than these bookends. In fact, they were not known for making end-consumer products. McKeesport made heavy component parts for big industry: commercial boiler pipe fittings, freight train axels...
Countdown to Father's Day - VII
For the Dad who savors his pint: a pair of enameled cufflinks for Guinness ("It's Good For You"). Though promoting the famously Irish brand, these cufflinks were made in England. Nevertheless, they still have that terrific, Thirties advertising look.
Countdown to Father's Day - VI
For the handy Dad: a British "shop class" hand truck with wheels made from early Twentieth Century coins. Probably made by a young English tradesman (learning his trade), it is just the right size to hold a supply of business cards.
Countdown to Father's Day - V
For the Dad in shining armor: a pair of bronze-clad bookends bearing a handsomely-sculpted bas relief image of Saint George Slaying the Dragon. Made in the 1920's, the bookends began their lives as finely hand-sculpted, original models from which moulds were made. The moulds were then used to cast the actual bookends in a "composite material"—that is, a fortified blend of plaster and other strengthening ingredients. Then the bookends were placed into a liquid bath containing finely-ground bronze dust. When electrical voltage was applied—zzzaaap!—the bronze dust clung to the composite, forming a thin bronze "skin" around the bookend. After cooling, the bronze could be patinated or painted like any other "true bronze" sculpture. At the time, such bronze-clad objects were...
Countdown to Father's Day - IV
For the rough-riding Dad: a heavy cast bronze bison, King of the Prairie. Classic symbol of the unspoiled West, bison have clawed their way back from the edge of extinction. This handsome and substantial beast will provide good company on Dad's desk—and bring back just a touch of Dad's wilder, earthier days.
Countdown to Father's Day - III
For the stylish Dad: a pair of English Art Deco cufflinks with a decidedly nautical attitude. Red and white striped enameling complete a seaworthy flag of bold, graphic color.
Countdown to Father's Day - II
For the Dad of Mettle: a three-dimensional puzzle of finely-engineered solid brass. Once it's securely reassembled, it makes a great paper weight and an even better conversation piece. Solid, well-assembled and just a little heavy. Just like Dad.
In Black & White - X
Let's end our "Symphony in Black & White" with this pair of English tin penguins—hand painted into their black and white tuxedoes. Created as a children's toys in the Twenties or Thirties—perhaps as members of a circus, zoo or ark menagerie—these tin animals would have usually experienced hard wear in the unforgiving hands of a youngster. Now, approaching their tenth decade, they are an elegant and whimsical reminder of a time gone by, when children's toys did not require batteries or wifi service.
In Black & White - IX
This week we've been exploring Handsome Gifts options in black and white. The English Art Deco cufflinks, shown above, were made in the 1930's. Indeed, they are enameled in black and white. But they also express other notable aspects of the British Art Deco movement including bold graphics, angular movement, and soft corners (which create a "sense of tension" as they wrestle to reform the angular original shape). The design and energy of this pair of cufflinks remind me of public transit signage from 1930s England: soft square shapes, high contrast coloration, bold graphics, simplicity of design and the use of hard-wearing enameling on metal. English Deco, to my eye, seems to feature the "softer side" of the movement—an opinion...
In Black & White - VI
The Jazz Age, that musical earthquake of the 1920's and 1930's, had a wide-ranging influence on the culture, image and attitude of the American nation. Indeed, Jazz affected the entire world. Jazz grew out of Black music, initially in the South. This origin triggered varied reactions to the musical style, from titillation, to fetishism, to wariness, to condemnation. Once White musicians began to pick-up or adapt (or copy) the genre, the music gained wider acceptance amongst White Americans. Jazz became very popular. Of course, this "jump" into the mainstream also changed the music dramatically.
In Black & White - IV
Stunning graphics are a legacy of the Art Deco movement—in America and worldwide. This pair of English Art Deco cufflinks boast handsome and energetic graphics on their enameled faces. Enameling involves artfully "laying" glass powder upon a surface (usually metal) and "baking" it to the point of melting the glass powder. The liquified glass spreads and fills the intended area—and eventually cools and solidifies back into a sheet of glass.
In Black & White - II
The Scottish Argyle pattern is a variety of "light plaid"—a series of solid colored squares or diamonds overlaid with diagonal lines. Sometimes the combination of elements creates an optical three-dimensional effect. The pattern has been worn in the Highlands of Scotland since the 1600's and is traditionally associated with Clan Campbell from Argyll, Western Scotland. Argyles became very fashionable after World War I. The Edinburgh knitwear company, Pringle of Scotland, popularized the pattern in England and America, using them on their fine hosiery and sweaters. The Duke of Windsor (who later became King Edward VIII) became associated with Argyles, increasing their popularity in the fashion of the Twenties and Thirties. He wore Argyle plaids while golfing, making the pattern...
Flowers for Mom - IV
For the mum with understated—and excellent—taste, here's something a little off the beaten path. A flower, indeed, sits at the center of this English Arts & Crafts hammered copper plate. Delicate peen work, precise piercing, and finely executed ribbing is surrounded by a gentle petaloid rim. Add to this the handsome nut brown patina which only develops on copper over decades. And, at center, is that precious little flower—shimmering ever so alluringly.
Flowers for Mom - II
Mother's Day is behind us, but it's always the right time to consider her next gift (or belated Mother's Day present). Shown here, a sweet border of flowers surrounds a little 2.5" x 3.5" pewter frame. It can sit either horizontally or vertically and would be a welcomed offering to any mother or grandmother.
Countdown to Mother's Day - X
We've been counting-down the days to Mother's Day with an assortment of thoughtful gifts for the important women in our lives. Be sure to request gift boxing, if you'd like it. We can also ship directly to your mother, possibly saving a few days in-transit. (Please be sure to specify your desired greeting for an enclosure card to accompany your gift.) A beautiful and functional letterknife is always a welcomed gift. And this one, shown above, is extra special. The handle is finely cast pewter, selectively gold-plated and enameled with a light olive green. To complete the design, hand-set Swarovski crystals are mounted into the handle. The nicely-shaped brass blade provides the working end of the implement. Click on the...
Countdown to Mother's Day - IX
Many mothers who travel for work carry photos of their children with them. Not just on their mobile phones, but in travel frames which they can display on their hotel room nightstands. These picture frames need to be big enough to be appreciated but portable and durable enough to withstand the rigors of travel. Even my own mother, who rarely travels (except to come visit me), will pack and bring-along a travel frame with photos of me and my brother. The travel photo frame shown above is from the 1940's. It closes like a portable compact, opening to reveal two round photographs. One of the nicest features is the handsomely engraved herringbone pattern which surrounds each photograph. Once closed, it is...
Countdown to Mother's Day - VIII
While on the hunt for men's jewelry, mostly cufflinks, I will often come-across women's jewelry which catches my eye—most often jewelry which might be called "handsome." (By the way, "handsome" was a term used to describe attractively stately women in the 19th Century. It did not carry a male-only connotation.) These pieces usually exhibit interesting metalwork or attractive semi-precious stones and would rarely be called "girly" or "fussy." Strong, bold and organic pieces are most likely to appeal to me. One such brooch is shown above: an English polished oval agate with randomly organic striations of blue, white and honey-caramel. The stone is set in a "twisted" sterling silver mounting, hallmarked London 1987. While the setting is not very old, the stone itself has...
Countdown to Mother's Day - VII
We're counting-down the days to Mother's Day with an assortment of thoughtful gifts for the important women in our lives. Order early and be sure to request gift boxing, if you'd like it. We can also ship directly to your mother, possibly saving a few days in-transit It's time to let our mothers kick-back, relax and demand a little service for themselves! This Edwardian English tea bell may give her the assist she needs. Tea bells were a fixture in British middle class households—back in the days when "middle class" meant a houseful of servants. Kept on a side table or tea tray, the bell would be used to summon the help quickly and discreetly. The specimen shown here, made of bronze "bell...
Countdown to Mother's Day - V
Since I opened my shop on Bleecker Street in 1995, I have always offered a curated blend of antique and contemporary items—"Handsome Gifts" and home furnishings. I always attempted to blend the items properly; to carry well-crafted offerings, old or new, which sat-well with each other. And I never wished to confuse the customer with a contemporary item deceitfully designed to pass as an antique. On the other hand, I occasionally found living artisans who were reviving age-old (perhaps "extinct") tradecraft—items made just as well (or better) today as they were made the first time around. The frame above is such an example. It was made by an artisan named Edgar Berebi in the East Coast jewelry manufacturing hub of Providence, Rhode Island. After...
Countdown to Mother's Day - IV
Everyone can use a little help organizing, especially busy moms. So much the better to help her do it with style.
This Edwardian English letter rack is made of brass mounted upon an oak base with handsomely chamfered edges. A swirling bale handle emerges energetically from behind brass botanical panels. Such a letter holder can be used on a working mom's desk or in the household: a place to sort mail, keep lists, save recipes, or store envelopes until they are ready to be mailed. The handsome design elevates these otherwise mundane tasks—and will add a bit of visual interest to her office, den or entry hall table.
Countdown to Mother's Day - III
Once upon a time (and not so long ago), sewing was a basic skill familiar to most households, especially (but not only) amongst women. While at-home dressmaking and tailoring was coming to a quick close after World War I (when "ready-to-wear" in department stores became quick, easy and affordable), most mending and altering of garments still could take place in the hands of a talented amateur. Every house had a drawer, box, or cake tin which held the needles, pins, seam-rippers and thread required to replace a button, mend a seam, or darn a sock. It was during this period, just before World War I, that this pincushion would have been in-use. The pincushion shown here is Edwardian English, made around 1905....
Countdown to Mother's Day - II
After Prince Albert died in 1861, Queen Victoria still had four decades left on the British throne. The Queen remained in-mourning throughout that long period, modifying her dress and adornment to suit her situation as a grieving widow. The Queen was also an important role model and taste-maker for the nation; her choices inevitably affected the mood, dress and comportment of her people. While not every piece of jewelry made during that time period could be called "mourning jewelry," simple, handsome and serious design remained popular through the end of the Nineteenth Century (and the Queen's lifetime). Frivolity was out. Sober was in. Luckily for me, I am fond of such heavy and handsome jewelry. And many of my female...
Countdown to Mother's Day - I
We're counting-down the days to Mother's Day with an assortment of thoughtful gifts for the important women in our lives. Order early and be sure to request gift boxing, if you'd like it. We can also ship directly to your mother, possibly saving a few days in-transit. (Please be sure to specify your desired greeting for an enclosure card to accompany your gift.) Picture frames are always a great gift for mum. No mother can have too many pictures of their children—or, better yet, their grandchildren. This Victorian English brass photo frame, made around 1890, has what are called "Oxford Corners"—the criss-crossing joinery usually found on wooden frames. Note the thoughtful chamfering along the horizontal and vertical members. This frame...
Light My Fire
Back in "the old days"—a time period which includes the Arts & Crafts period—maintaining and managing fire(s) was an important task. Fires might be used for lighting, cooking, heating, manufacturing and other industrial tasks. And sometimes one needed to "transfer" (or spread) a fire from one place to another. In a wood-burning fireplace or stove, a "Cape Cod" style "fire starter," like the one shown above, was a useful tool to have in the household. The "pitcher"—this one is hand-hammered steel in the Arts & Crafts style—would hold a supply of lamp oil. A wrought-iron "wand," with a soapstone "egg" at one end, would soak in the lamp oil, thus absorbing a good amount of the fuel. This wand would...
God Bless a Terrier!"
The Scottish Terrier—also called the Aberdeen Terrier or, more popularly, "The Scottie"—is one of the five recognized breeds of terriers from Scotland (a list which includes the Cairn, Skye, Dandie Dinmont and West Highland Terriers). The breed was developed as "ratters"—animals which would catch and kill small vermin indoors or on a farm. The breed is known for being bright, alert, quick, rugged, independent, feisty and territorial. They become very loyal to their families, often singling-out one or two individuals for an extra-close bond. These traits make them pleasant house pets and good watch dogs. But their stubbornness—and wariness of strangers—can make them unpredictable around people they don't know. It is advised to watch them carefully around the erratic movements of...
"Best In The World"
After San Francisco's devastating earthquake of 1906—and the fires which followed, which were worse—the city was in need of a jump-start. The "San Francisco Panama-Pacific International Exhibition" of 1915 was the kind of celebration and promotion that brought the world to The City by the Bay. In truth, this world's fair was intended to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal the previous year. However, civic and business leaders also knew that such an event could be a wonderful showcase for San Francisco, encouraging industry and tourism for the city. A square mile of land—inconceivable today—was used to build-out the fair. A telephone line was run from New York City which allowed New Yorkers to hear the Pacific live. The...
Three Months 'til LEO!
Three months from today—on 23 July—the Sun enters the sign of LEO where it will stay for the following month. Anyone born during that month-long period will have the honor and distinction of being able to claim LEO as their sunsign.
The little bronze sculpture, shown above, celebrates LEO every day. Turn him over and you'll see the word "Courage" impressed into his tummy. It's a gentle (and perfect) reminder for your favorite Leonine: Stay Strong!
Tiffany Goes Modern
When I think of Tiffany silver goods, I reflexively picture the heavy and elegant works from the late Nineteenth Century: pitchers engraved with Aesthetic Movement graphics, crawling with the insects, arachnids and amphibians of the period's Darwinian intrigue. But Tiffany, the company, has adapted with the times and, for the most part, succeeded. They are still in business to this day. In the Post-War Modernist period, Tiffany crafted these little cordials of sterling silver—in keeping with the streamlined aesthetic of the Fifties and Sixties. The little "beakers" might be used to serve a cordial or after-dinner drink, perhaps a one-ounce "pony shot" as such a small tipple is known. These cups were sent to me by a customer in New...
Happy Easter
From your friends at LEO Design:
Wishing all a Happy Easter
and a Joyful Spring!
From Times Past
In the days before electricity, oil lamps and candles provided light for the household. A candle box—a wall-mounted receptacle to hold a supply of fresh candles—was as ordinary back then as a light switch is today. Plain candle boxes were often hung in the kitchen where their utilitarian purpose suited the functioning of the room. Beside providing light, candles were also handy for "transferring" fire from one spot to another—say, lighting a gas burner with the flame from a lamp. A more decorative candle box, like the English Arts & Crafts specimen shown above, might have hung on the wall of a sitting room or dining room—where the decorative repoussé metalwork would add a touch of panache. Candles stored in the...
The Chow-Chow
The Chinese Chow-Chow is amongst the oldest dog breeds in the world, one of the so-called "basal breeds" (that is, dog breeds which were developed for specific tasks centuries ago, before the modern era of canine husbandry). Some historians estimate the breed may be 2000 to 3000 years old, beginning in the Arctic, migrating through Mongolia, and eventually settling in China. Their sturdy bodies, ultra-thick fur, and fierce loyalty made them highly desirable as guard dogs or to work in difficult winter climates. The fact that their fur forms a ruff-like "collar" around their necks—which gives them the appearance of a lion—made them even more desirable as palace guard dogs. In the 13th Century, Marco Polo wrote his observations of seeing...
Happy Birthday, Jackie
My stepmother, Jackie, played a significant role in my life. And today would have been her 77th birthday. It just so happened that she, my father and my kid brother, Ian, arrived for a long-planned summer visit with me, in New York, the very day I received the keys to my first shop space on Bleecker Street. It was 1995. They spent their Manhattan holiday week helping me demo and clean the old shop. Six years later, Jackie stayed with us for a month after 9-11. She was volunteering as a social worker with the Red Cross, helping families in the aftermath of the attack. In 2005, I spent the last three weeks of her life with her, flying to Fez, Morocco,...
Spring Green
There's a beautiful delicacy to the early green of Spring: tender, gentle and hopeful. With winter moving-on, my garden is beginning to re-leaf in this wonderful hue. It is truly a color of promise.
These English Art Nouveau cufflinks, made in the early Twentieth Century, feature "jadeite" (green artglass) "turtleback" cabochons. Their softly-pebbled texture and central "dorsal hump" are also reminiscent of shagreen—the cured skin of sharks and rays, so fashionable in the period. Their soft green color are the perfect accent for Spring or even the Summer. They will look great on the shirt cuff dressing a handsome, sun-tanned wrist.
It's Mourning in England
When I hunt for jewelry, I mostly seek cufflinks—from the Victorian to the Art Deco Period. But I will frequently stumble across a piece of women's jewelry that I cannot pass-up. These pieces often feature interesting stones, heavy metal work and bold designs. More "handsome" than "girlie." Some of my favorite pieces are known as "Mourning Jewelry" from Victorian England. Mourning jewelry was not invented by the Victorians; it had been crafted and worn since the Medieval Era. But, with the death of Prince Albert in 1861, Queen Victoria began a 40 year period of mourning—and took her country along with her (at least for part of that time). Whitby jet, from Yorkshire, became popular. It was black, shiny and...
Wonder Metal
Copper is a marvelous metal, one of the few that is not naturally silver or grey in color. The first known human use of copper was around 8000 BC—and it was first "smelted" (that is, heated and leached out of an ore) around 5000 BC. In 3500 BC, copper was the first metal to be alloyed with another, that is, blended with tin to produce bronze. Some 2000 years ago, the Romans mined copper in Cyprus, calling it "the metal of Cyprus"; in time, this name was corrupted and Anglicized into the common word we know today. Copper is unusual in that it can be used immediately in its pure, natural form. It is soft, making it easy...
The Sign of Peace
From ancient times—in Mesopotamia, Ancient Greece and Jōman Era Japan—the dove has been used as an important cultural, religious, and aesthetic symbol. Even today, the world's biggest religions (and Paganism, too) all use the dove, usually in the role of messenger, symbol of purity or harbinger of peace. In the Jewish Old Testament, Noah releases a dove from the ark which returns with an olive leaf in her beak, a message to Noah that the flood waters have begun to recede. The Christian Gospels refer multiple times to a dove which symbolizes the Holy Spirit—or, more specifically, the Holy Spirit descending to Earth. Even in secular language, a person is called "dovish" if s/he prefers peacemaking to taking-up arms.
The Borzoi Hound
The Borzoi is the modern name for the Russian Wolfhound (which was the common name for the breed before 1936). In Seventeenth Century Russia, North African "sighthounds" (that is, dogs which hunt with sight and speed, rather than smell and endurance) were cross-bred with local, thick-coated dogs. They became popular with the Tsars who used them for hunting wolves. A pair (or trio) of the Wolfhounds would be sent after a sighted wolf. The dogs would attack the wolf's neck, eventually subduing and immobilizing it until the hunter could catch-up and kill the animal with a knife. The breed was so highly-esteemed that it was illegal for commoners to breed the dog; they could only be given by the Tsar....
Perpetually Shielded
Here's another pair of rolled-platinum cufflinks, made in the Teens or Twenties by Krementz of Newark, New Jersey. A "rolled-metal" involves bonding a top layer of a precious metal (with heat and pressure) to another layer of a less-expensive base metal. This allows the jewelry to have the appearance and weight of a more costly piece and it also makes the piece more durable (as base metals are typically stronger than high-content precious metals). Krementz was not the only jeweler to use "plied" metals to make its products. But they did use a thicker layer of the precious metal than did their competitors. And they confidently provided a "perpetual" guarantee—promising to replace any item, forever, which failed in quality or craftsmanship.
Celebrating the Classical Past
The Art Deco Movement frequently "lifted" historical aesthetic themes from the past. Sometimes from the distant past. Egyptian motifs were well-employed by Art Deco architects, decorators and designers. So were Greco-Roman elements. This reviving of the Classical Past lent an air of timelessness to the design—and a recognition of the Western World's intellectual, social and political roots. The polychromed bookends, shown above, are a sculpted bas relief representation of "The Graphic Arts." Scribes bend-over their drawings, draped in hand-painted robes, sitting beside a hand-painted forest. Sculptural elements, such as this, were often employed in Art Deco architecture and interior decoration. A walk through and around Rockefeller Center in New York, for example, will provide numerous examples of applied sculpted (or...
The Tax Man Cometh
Two weeks from today—18 April 2022—is Tax Day, that annual heavy lift that we keep putting-off 'til the last minute. For me, it is also the annual season of resolution: resolution to organize myself and "never go through this again!" To that end, here's a small solution. (A very small solution.) This little bronze Arts & Crafts organizer, made by Silvercrest (c. 1920), could make your organizing just one little bit easier. The bronze has a mottled and textured surface and is enhanced with an applied silver scrolling pine motif. It could hold fresh stationery, payments to be mailed, or envelopes containing receipts for tax time.
Old Giza
The Great Sphinx of Giza is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt, completed around 2500 BC. It is also one of the most recognizable monuments in the world. Two thousand years ago—during the Greco-Roman Period—rich and powerful citizens made the difficult journey to stand before what was at that point an antiquity. The Sphinx crouches along the West Bank of the River Nile, carved out of the bedrock under the plain. The large mass of extraneous stone, removed during the carving, was intended to be used to build a temple surrounding the Sphinx (though this was never completed). The Sphinx stands 66 feet high and 240 feet long. It was originally painted, archaeologists believe, because traces of color have been found in...
Understated Elegance
On this day in 1866, just months after the close of the American Civil War, George Krementz founded his jewelry manufacturing company in Newark, New Jersey. For the first 12 years, he made a "general range" of women's jewelry but strictly for wholesale trade to other jewelry makers, not under the Krementz brand name. In 1884, he received a patent for his new collar stud design (which would become the first men's item he would manufacture). Collar studs were used to attach starched collars to dress shirts, in the days before they were sewn together. Krementz's new design was of one-piece construction (no seams, thus stronger) and could be made quickly on the new machinery he developed. Shortly after receiving his...
Technology Face-Off
Technology—and the corporate campaign to exploit it—transforms and adapts to satisfy the "needs and opportunities" of the times. Sometimes a "face-off" ensues: as technology marches forward, new businesses blossom and grow while other businesses wither and fall-away. Over the last 150 years, industry has responded (multiple times) to the way society reads and collects information. Let's close-out the month of March with this interesting bookrack, made shortly after the Turn-of-the-Twentieth-Century. Before the Industrial Age, there were very few people in the Middle Class. There were a handful of land and factory owners and a mass of people who worked for them. Though people were taught to read, only the wealthy could afford to collect many books. A private library was only within...
Beautifully Receptive
Yesterday we shared a French ceramic "comb dish"—once used to neatly tuck-away a comb on the dresser, washstand or vanity table. Today we share an Edwardian English "hair receiver." An object like this would be found on many an upper class woman's dressing table. As a woman brushed-out her hair, probably before bed, and loose hair collected in her hairbrush, she would gather that hair and stuff it down into the hair receiver. When a sufficient amount had been accumulated, she would send it to a hairdresser who would fashion it into a hairpiece. That ornament, made of her own hair, could be worn by the woman to supplement her hairstyle. This turned ebonywood hair receiver is topped with an engraved...
Ode to a Shrinking Font Size
Every year, it seems, the fine print on boxes, documents and mobile phones gets smaller and smaller. Is Kellogs attempting to use less ink? Perhaps Apple is trying to conserve pixels? Never mind, I say. Just start a collection of magnifying glasses—and position them strategically around your home and office. This brass-framed magnifying glass is nice and strong. The antique patina provides a handsome finish.
Lean Times
England enjoyed powerhouse economic growth in the Nineteenth Century. But, after World War I (1914-1918), England fell into a slump which lasted throughout the 1920's. Things got even worse in the Thirties as the whole world suffered the Great Depression. Then came the War—a terrifying six years of danger, loss, debt and economic deprivation for England. Unlike in the United States, where the economy boomed after the War, the decade following World War II was still very poor for the British economy. England had lost many of its export markets, racked-up tremendous debt, and needed to re-build its destroyed infrastructure. It was not until the Mid-Fifties that England was powered-up and producing at an impressive clip.
School's Back
To the delight of parents nationwide, "real" school is back, at least for now. After months of video classes, isolation and hoping for a children's vaccine, it seems that the morning school bell has finally rung.
The school bell, shown above, was made in England in the late Nineteenth Century. It is made of a type of bronze—sometimes called "bell metal"—in the Aesthetic Movement style. Horizontal etching on the body becomes horizontal ribbing on the shaft—carried-through to a turned, ribbed ebonywood knob at top.
Nine Months 'til Christmas!
It's beginning to look a lot like . . . Spring. But Christmas is a short nine months away. Start your shopping now! Here's a pewter Christmas Tree, made in Los Angeles, which could be hung upon the tree or in a window. It can also be used as a holiday candle snuffer. Click on the photo above to learn more about it.
To Clean or Not To Clean?
How much to polish antique metal is a matter of personal taste and local custom. As a rule, antiques dealers generally believe it is better to do less—and preserve the value of something—than to over-clean (or over restore) something and destroy its value. English antiques dealers tend to go a bit heavier on the polishing of antique metals than their American counterparts. For me, it depends on which metal is being considered and what the metallic object is. Copper, as long as the finish is nice and even, I will never polish. There is nothing more beautiful than a deep, rich, dark, nut brown copper finish—again, as long as it's even. The same is even more true of bronze....
Crouching Tiger
We're now several weeks into The Year of the Tiger—one of the twelve characters in the twelve year "Chinese" Zodiac cycle. Tigers are the LEOs of the Asian Lunar Zodiac: courageous, assertive, thrill-seeking, quick-tempered, leaderly and desirous of being the center-of-attention. Notable Tigers include Queen Elizabeth II, Tony Bennett, Christian Bale, Leonardo DiCaprio, Lady Gaga and Stevie Wonder.
This little tiger—cast in brass and finished with a verdigris bronze patina—will sit quietly waiting for just...the...right...moment to spring. Until then, his tense energy will remain coiled and waiting (on your desk, bookshelf or windowsill).
Great Drama
Though it may be a cliché, it is often presumed that great artists lead troubled, tortured and turbulent lives. In the case of the great German composer, Richard Wagner (1813-1883), this seems to be the case. Two hundred years after his birth, his music works still electrify audiences—some of whom travel thousands of miles to see good productions of his masterworks. And, yet, some of the troubling aspects of his life still hover over his legacy, perhaps promoting even more scrutiny as the decades mount. Wagner was the ninth sibling born to his family. His father died when Richard was six months old and the boy grew-up believing that his stepfather, Ludwig Geyer (a playwright and actor), was his biological progenitor. Young...
A Link to Secessionism
Secessionism was the Arts & Crafts Movement variant of Vienna at the Turn-of-the-Twentieth-Century. Like its "sister movements" in other parts of the world, Secessionism marked the "movement away" from the prevailing design and aesthetic conventions which preceded it. It also utilized a distinctive vocabulary of design elements including natural and botanical motifs, the elevation of handcraft and the promotion of natural materials.
The cufflinks shown above are probably not Viennese (or even Austrian). They are most likely American. But they are certainly from the Secessionist period—and utilize a Secessionist-inspired scrolling motif.
Puzzled
Art meets engineering meets intriguing plaything. This finely-engineered and beautifully sculpted "toy" could stand-alone as an objet d'art on your desk. It would certainly make a nice (and heavy) paperweight. But it is also a puzzle; its meticulously-honed solid brass members assemble into the geometric shape you see above. Made in Brooklyn, this little work of art will prove hard to resist. Visitors to your office will be unable to not pick it up!
The New Modern Woman
The 1920's marked the birth of a new Modern Woman. During World War I, while many American men were at war in Europe, women joined the labor force as never before (often replacing men who had been sent-off to fight). More women than ever experienced a taste of moving within the commercial working world and enjoyed increased independence, the result of earning their own wages. After the war, some women did return to home and hearth. But many more women seized the opportunity to reinvent their roles in society. Working outside of the home was one of the biggest changes. But style and fashion underwent changes, too. "Bobbed" hairstyles reflected the modern, sporty times. Clothing was revolutionized: out went the corsets...
Cufflinks Are Not Earrings
We've sold hundreds of pairs of cufflinks over the years. Eighty percent of the time, the purchaser is a man buying cufflinks for himself. The other twenty percent of the time, it's someone else (occasionally a woman) buying a gift for a man. When I'm selling a pair of cufflinks to a woman—which are intended to be a gift for a man—the customer will will nearly always remark, "My husband's very conservative in his dress." She will guide me to show her the more-understated options. My response is always, first, to show her the more conservative options. Then I will explain that cufflinks are not like earrings. Whereas earrings are highly-visible, centrally-placed, and subject to intense scrutiny, a pair of...
Out-of-Sight, Out-of-Mind
For most of LEO Design's 27 years, we've sold more photo frames, antique and well-crafted contemporary, than any other type of item. People like being surrounded by nicely-framed images of loved ones—even if they have thousands of digital pictures saved on their iPhone photo rolls. Displaying a picture in-the-flesh makes it prominent. One comes across it—glances at it—unexpectedly, unintentionally. And that's what makes a framed picture so much nicer than a digital screen image: you do not have to seek-it-out in order to enjoy it. When the photo's out-of-sight, it's out-of-mind. The frame, shown above, is from the 1940's. The brass is embossed with a highly-stylized, scrolling botanical motif. The metal is formed into the frame's profile, it's cut and assembled,...
Soft Brutalist
Add Sweden to the makers of cufflinks here at LEO Design. These sterling silver cufflinks, made in the late 1940's or 1950's, sit (aesthetically) somewhere between the earlier Art Deco period and the Brutalist Movement to come. Thus they present the crisp elegance of Deco while leaning-forward (but not too far!) into Modernist Brutalism. They present a "softer side" of Modernism—clean, elegant and not too chunky. They are crafted of 925 silver.
Georg Mendelssohn
Georg Mendelssohn (1886-1955) was a master metalworker, best known for his artistic brassworks in the early Twentieth Century. He was part of the Deutscher Werkbund, a progressive arts movement and predecessor to the Bauhaus School. His "primitive style" works (as they were called) fall within the greater Arts & Crafts Movement, called Jugendstil in German. Georg was born in Tartu, Estonia (then called by it's old German name, Dorpat). His family was well-educated, successful and upper middle class. Though his family had some Jewish ancestry, he was baptized and raised Lutheran. As a boy, he taught himself jewelry making. Shortly after the Turn-of-the-Century, while still in his teens, Georg moved to Italy where he helped found a Tuscan artists' colony...
Unidentified Flying Logo
I buy a lot of cufflinks while traveling in England and Scotland. Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco and Modernism—my acquisitions span several periods and movements, from about 1870 to about 1970. The period which most catches my eye, it seems, is the Art Deco period of the 1920's and 1930's, that "Golden Age" of cufflink-making between the wars. But I also like early Modernist designs, too, especially if they seem to have evolved out of the Art Deco movement which preceded it. I search for cufflinks "with my eyes first," meaning, it is the appearance, design and visual aesthetic of the links which first pique my interest. Of course, material, condition, and theme also plays some role. But, if the cufflinks don't...
Tracks in the Snow
While Spring will be here in less than two weeks, there's still a chance that we may see a bit more snow. And, where there's snow, we find foot tracks. Human tracks, including the occasional skid mark. Doggie tracks, occasionally turning in circles. And the random tracks of wildlife—rabbits, squirrels, birds, deer and other indiscernible creatures—which "violate" the perfection of a new-fallen blanket of snow.
My "new" neighborhood in Pittsburgh adjoins the University of Pittsburgh—in a fairly well-urbanized district called Oakland. There are plenty of deer in the nearby Schenley Park, however, they rarely venture-out into the urban bustle.
Nouveau à Nouveau
What's old sometimes becomes new again. Here, a pair of French Art Nouveau silver cufflinks from just before World War One. Within almond-shaped "fields" bloom tiny gardens of flowers—life prevailing despite strict confinement. Alas, the Great War would change everything, including the aesthetics à la mode. Once the War was over, and life returned to normal, the world was ready for something different, something which augured a hopeful & progressive future. Art Deco stood in the wings, ready to take center stage.
The almond-like slivers pass easily through a buttonhole and provide an elegant, delicate closure to the shirt cuff.
Slouchy Puppy
Though this little sculpture is simple, the artist has deftly captured the slack energy—and curiosity—of a slouchy puppy. He is cast in brass and finished with an aged verdigris bronze patina. He would happily serve as a paperweight on your desk or provide companionship from your windowsill. His larger sibling is also currently available.
RUJT?
Are you J. T.? (Or, perhaps, T. J.?) This handsome pair of Soviet Era sterling silver cufflinks—dated 1 May 1956—are engraved with the letters T & J. A crisp, elegant border frames the monogram beautifully.
Russia is much in the news these days. Sadly, some political leaders and influencers (in Russia and America) are cheering for a reconstituted Soviet Union—and providing justification for the aggression. It's interesting to note that these very cufflinks were crafted during a period of hardship, discord and struggle. And, yet, their beauty managed to outlive the strife. Perhaps there's a lesson for us here: while bad periods pass (albeit after a lot of time and pain), human craft and beauty can survive and continue to inspire long after the conflict ends.