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Let's end our exploration of "schoolboy" cufflinks with this interesting pair which displays a crest on one face and a diagonal slash of repp-striping on the other face. I am sure that the crest and stripes signify a particular unit, club, school or team—but who they are is still undetermined by me. Nevertheless, these handsome cufflinks from the Thirties provide in spades that quintessential "British Association" look. One can wear them with confidence, knowing that a certain American fashion designer has built an empire on "Faux British Aristocratic Pretension." At least this heraldry is real (for someone). Click on the photo above to learn more about them.
Back-To-School Blues - II
Repp stripes were (and are) highly-popular in England where they often represent a regiment, a school, a sports team or some other club or clan. Like tartan plaids in Scotland, members of the (originally all-male) groups would wear their colors with great pride.
Occasionally, I am able to identify the organization to which a particular repp stripe belongs. But, most of the time, I remain in-the-dark as to the pattern's origins. I also suppose that some repp stripe patterns are designed (or re-colored) by fashion designers, simply to look nice on a tie, a scarf or a pair of cufflinks—not because they are historically accurate renderings of a school's or team's colors.
Back-To-School Blues - I
By now, most students have trundled back to school. And, this year, some of them might be returning after more than a year away. Personally, I always loved the first day of school and was always excited to return. But, for others, September signaled the "Back-to-School Blues."
One of the mysterious inconsistencies of the English language—on different sides of the Atlantic—is the meaning of the term "public school." In England, where the term was coined, public schools are those fancy, expensive, private schools (open to students for a tuition fee). In America, "public schools" are those open to the wider public, paid-for by the public.
Last Crack at Summer - 3
Among the "memorable sights" of Summer is that of a nicely-tanned wrist, emerging from a light blue shirt cuff, punctuated by a white cufflink such as the one shown above. White and blue are summery enough. Add a little tanned skin and the look is complete.
These Art Deco cufflinks, made in the 1920's, are centered with a woven mesh of "mixed metals." Around that, a bright white iris beams. Though they would look good in any of the twelve months of the year, during the summer, they can work their finest magic—showing-off your hard-won summer tan.
Last Crack at Summer - 1
Having already experienced a few crisp nights and the shortening days, we realize that Summer won't last much longer. Here are a few ways to "take a last crack" at Summer, before it goes.
Taking a holiday along the seaside become fashionable in England in the late Eighteenth Century. By the early Nineteenth Century—as one will read in many of Jane Austin's novels—spending "the season" in a coastal resort town might be the highlight of a young person's life (whether dressed in "regimentals" or cotton Empire dresses). Spending time along the sea (and, perhaps, taking a dip) was considered healthful and refreshing—not to mention, a chance to let one's hair down.
Edwardian Accents - IV
Let's end our tour of Edwardian cufflinks with this interesting trio of sterling silver shirt studs—connected with a silver chain. Before World War I, sewn-on buttons had not yet become popular. Prince or pauper, a man needed shirt studs and cufflinks to fasten the plackets on his shirt. In even earlier times, men would tie or lace their shirts to close them (and many shirts were designed to be pulled-over the head). This set of fancy shirt studs bear a turquoise enameled fleur-di-lis on each sterling silver stud. One might find this interesting, given historical British antipathy toward the French (and their famous icon). But there has been a long history of fleurs-di-lis on English heraldry, especially on medieval...
Edwardian Accents - III
The English cufflinks shown here are made of "Blue John," a rare semi-precious gemstone found in just one region of England—in the Blue John Cavern, under Treak Cliff in Castleton, Derbyshire, England. Blue John is a form of banded "fluorspar" with alternating purple/blue and yellow/white layers. It is believed that the name comes from the French term "Bleu-Jaune" (that is, "Blue-Yellow," a reference to the banded coloration). Even today, scientists have not figured-out what causes the unique and beautiful coloration. It is uncertain when the first veins of Blue John were discovered in Derbyshire, but the first record of mining the rare stone comes from a letter in 1766 (making reference to the leasing of the mines). Initial quarrying provided enough Blue John to...
Edwardian Accents - II
La Belle Époque spread to North America where sometimes it was called "The Gilded Age." In America, this was a period of tremendous growth, industry and invention. But, like elsewhere, the financial fruits of this boom were concentrated near the top—amongst the "Robber Barons." In my old home of New York City, the beneficiaries of the Industrial Revolution had names like Astor, Morgan and Vanderbilt. They controlled transport, banking and various lucrative trades. In my new home of Pittsburgh (a real heavy-hitter during The Gilded Age) names like Carnegie, Frick, Mellon or Schwab might ring a bell, even today. It has been argued that Pittsburgh "built America" during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. In fact, one neighborhood in...
Edwardian Accents - I
The Edwardian Age was a time of handsome style, obvious socio-political awakenings, and the last few years of innocence before The Great War and the turbulent decades to follow. This week, we'd like to share a few offerings from the Edwardian cufflink collection at LEO Design. The British Empire expanded greatly during the Victorian Age. The World—and its peoples—were viewed as resources to utilize (if not exploit). And England, like other powerful countries at their strongest, was not shy about stepping-up to seize-the-moment. During the late Victorian and Edwardian periods, England controlled so many far-flung countries that it was said that "The sun never sets on the British Empire." I do not single-out England as a lone villain in this endeavor. Other...
Nouveau Novelties - IV
Let's end our collection of Art Nouveau cufflinks with this understated—but nevertheless handsome—pair of Edwardian English Art Nouveau cufflinks. A scrolling botanical bas relief covers half the surface area of these golden, elongate-hexagonal cufflinks.
"Edwardian" usually refers to the period of Edward VII's reign: from 1901 (when his mother, Queen Victoria, died) to 1910 (when he died). Edward, nearly 60 when he was crowned, was a fashionable and socially-prominent monarch who lived in a "modern" age—that is, a period when information, news and photo images were able to be widely and quickly distributed. Thus, his sartorial choices and leisure behaviors were quickly disseminated around the world—where they could make an immediate impact and be promptly emulated.
Nouveau Novelties - III
Enameled cufflinks are probably my favorites. And, while most of our collection of enameled cufflinks are from the Art Deco period, I occasionally acquire an earlier pair (from the Art Nouveau period) or a later pair (from the Modernist period). Enameling is the process of laying glass powder upon metal and then heating it to the point where the glass powder melts into molten glass. Upon cooling, the "enameling" is simply a layer of glass (often colored) lying upon a base of metal (sometimes engraved in a process called guilloché). Enameling provides a rich, luxurious surface and allows for a creative explosion of colorful graphic design. Fine, machine-turned engraving (beneath the enamel) provides a whole new dimension of pattern...
Nouveau Novelties - II
At the time that these cufflinks were made—around the Turn-of-the-Century—pearls were the rarest, most mysterious, and most expensive of "gemstones." At this point, cultured pearls had not been developed. And, while these cufflinks are not made of real pearls, they are made of Mother-of-Pearl (and, with their soft luminescence and iridescence, are highly reminiscent of the coveted precious globules).
From Biblical times, pearls have been lauded as "more precious" than other objects. Pearls were referenced in numerous parables, lessons and other maxims. And, let's not forget, "The Pearly Gates" did not get their nickname for no reason.
Nouveau Novelties - I
For a few days, we would like to share some of our Early Twentieth Century Art Nouveau cufflinks—from England and from America.
This pair, probably American, have a decidedly Eastern European Secessionist design—in the form of hexagonal, "riveted" shields. What they lack in color, they more than compensate for in design-punch and style. Imagine them—handsome and proud—on your shirt cuffs.
Welcome, September!
The sapphire—amongst the treasured "Cardinal Gemstones"—has been highly-valued for millennia and is the birthstone bestowed upon those born in September. Indeed, there is something immaculate, heavenly and, well, divine about the sapphire—a pristine presence somehow elevated above earthly matters and concerns. Their crisp purity reminds us that perfection is, indeed, possible. Sapphires are made of corundum, made blue by the presence of iron and titanium. Other colors of sapphires can be found, too, depending upon the impurities found within it: yellow, purple, orange, grey or black. Some stones have two colors (side by side) and corundum without any impurities is clear. Red corundum (colored with chromium) is called a ruby and they are sometimes mined near sapphires Sapphires are found...
Mod Links - IX
Let's end our procession of Modernist cufflinks with these understated—but interesting—sterling silver accessories. They were made shortly after World War Two by Simmons, a jeweler in Attleboro, Massachusetts. Simmons was founded in 1873—in the middle of the Victorian Era—and, thus, was well-aware of that earlier design period. Although the size, shape and functional mounting of the cufflinks is clearly Modernist, the scrolling botanical engraving is a tip-of-the-hat to Simmons's Victorian roots. But the engraving is not a "direct lift" of Nineteenth Century foliate engraving. Instead it is adapted, loosened-up and enlarged, making it a clearly-Modernist embellishment.
Mod Links - VIII
The Modernist Movement—like many design movements before it—was known to "lift" aesthetic inspiration from history and the work of earlier designers. Modernist designers and craftsmen (like all artists) looked-back for historical, literary and cultural elements which could be "revived" (or adapted) for their contemporary works. I've sold Mid-Century pottery inspired by archeological discoveries—including vases decorated to emulate early paintings from the caves of Lascaux, France. Many Modernist ceramics forms are inspired by the utilitarian objets (jugs, urns, bowls) uncovered at sites in Egypt, Greece, or Mesopotamia (which explains the abundance of jug handles on so many Modernist vases). Ancient shields, architecture and other graphic elements were adapted and freely-utilized in Modernist decor. It's all part of the same "Cycle of Design" from the beginning...
Mod Links - VII
These Czech Modernist cufflinks have seen quite a bit of dramatic history! They were made in the 1920's, during the period known as The First Czechoslovak Republic. After World War One, and the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1918), several former portions of the Empire were cobbled together to create a new country—and the name "Czechoslovakia" was born. After 1933, Czechoslovakia was the only remaining functioning democracy in Central Europe. But it was not to last. In 1938, Germany took Sudetenland, the "German Region" of Czechoslovakia. Other regions were ceded to Hungary and Poland. Thus began The Second Czechoslovak Republic which was only to last six months. In 1939, the Nazis took the rest of the young country; from 1939 to 1945, Czechoslovakia ceased...
Mod Links - VI
"In the old days," silversmiths like Paul Revere worked hard to avoid any sign of hammer marks in their wares. They would use increasingly fine "peens" from their collection of hammers to create a perfectly-smooth, mirrored finish to their silver works. The best items were devoid of any hammer marks or imperfections. At the turn-of-the-Twentieth-Century, Arts & Crafts artisans embraced a different point of view. Prominent hammer marks were now encouraged as part of the decoration—providing evidence of the human handwork that went into creating such a piece. The contemporary cufflinks, shown above, are fashioned of hand-hammered sterling silver. The only embellishment to be found on their large, Modernist faces is the skillful hand-hammering which catches the light—and reminds us that they...
Mod Links - V
"Celtic Knots" refer to the interlacing, never-ending "braid-work" in the art and craft of the Irish, Scottish, Cornish and Welsh. Although earlier examples of such "plaited" design themes are found in other places—early Roman mosaic work, Byzantine stonework, Scandinavian woodcarving, and other European folk craft—the Celts embraced the style and vigorously adapted it to their own culture. After Christianity was introduced to the Celts (in the Fourth Century AD), Celtic-style plaiting (and other design) was incorporated into every sort of religious works: architecture, stonework, woodcarving, even illuminated manuscripts. In the mid Twentieth Century, when these cufflinks were made, there was a powerful movement in Celtic lands to revive and promote the ancient, native folk culture—especially as a means of differentiating themselves from the dominant English...
Mod Links - IV
Two chunky slabs of "coffee & cream" marble make for a substantial pair of Modernist (nearly Brutalist) cufflinks from the 1950's or 1960's. The goldtone bevelled settings, which handsomely frame the ingots, were patented in 1949. These cufflinks perfectly illustrate the evolution of cufflink design after World War Two—when Art Deco began to take a back seat to the weighty minimalism of Mid-Century Modern. Men's tailoring—including ties, cufflinks and jacket lapels—became wider, thicker and heavier.
Mod Links - III
As we discussed two days ago, "Modernism" began in the late Nineteenth Century and included Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts, and the Art Deco movements. Modernism came to full fruition with the Mid-Century Modern period after World War II, the 1950's through the 1970's. The handsome cufflinks, shown above, are Modernist—but with the streamlined, sculptural Art Deco influences which suggested the "Jet Age Industrialism" to come. They were made in Rochester, New York by Hickok.
Mod Links - II
Aage Weimar (1902-1986) was a Danish Modernist jeweler known for his bold (and sometimes Brutalist) designs. These striking, sculptural cufflinks were made in the 1940's or 1950's of 830 silver. Northern European Modernist cufflinks—those from Scandinavia, Finland or Soviet Russia—tend to exhibit strong, sculptural forms, often in simple silver or gold vermeil (that is, silver coated with a layer of gold). These Danish cufflinks, though uncomplicated, still serve-up a bold aesthetic punch.
Mod Links - I
This week we'll be sharing a selection of Modernist cufflinks, recently added to our on-line collection. Please click here to see our full range of cufflinks—from Victorian to Modernist. One often thinks of "Modernist" as concurrent with "Mid-Century." But Modernism actually began during the end of the Nineteenth and beginning of the Twentieth Centuries. Dr. Christopher Dresser was pushing Space-Age boundaries in England during the 1880's. L'Art Nouveau—"The New Style"—was well underway by the Turn-of-the-Century. And the Bauhaus School (as well as Art Deco) flourished between the World Wars (1919-1939). These cufflinks, made in the Twenties, are clearly "Cubist" in form. Cubism began in the first decade of the Twentieth Century, two decades before these cufflinks were made. A faceted rock crystal punctuates...
Let the Sun Shine! - XI
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
Let's end our parade of sunshine-inspired cufflinks with this interesting and unusual pair from the late Art Deco period. Triangles of 9 karat gold are engraved with concentric circles (at center), from which radiating "sunbeams" emanate outward.
They were hallmarked in Chester, England in 1958—a bit late for the Art Deco period—though there were still a few designers working in that inter-war style (carmakers, furniture crafters and cinema designers, for example).
Let the Sun Shine! - X
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
These cufflinks are a favorite of mine! The warm amber enameling. The crisp white bezels (perfect against a summer-tanned wrist). And the intricate guilloche work, pulsing beneath the glass. Add to that their resemblance to the sun and—well, maybe I should keep these myself! They were made in the Art Deco Thirties and represent the height of the period's glamour, style and sophistication.
Let the Sun Shine! - IX
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again. I have described these cufflinks as "Edwardian"—and have dated them to around 1905—but I may have been too conservative in my attempt, not wanting to overstate their age. They might, indeed, be a bit older than this. The company that made them, "Foster & Bailey," was founded in 1873 in Providence, Rhode Island. Jeweler Theodore Foster (first in partnership with Mr. White and then with Mr. Bailey) grew the business from a one floor operation in 1880 to a full building of 275 craftsmen in 1898 (when Foster bought-out Bailey). They...
Let the Sun Shine! - VIII
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
These English Art Deco cufflinks from the Thirties are a real spot of sunshine. The fronts are 9 karat gold, engraved with radiating sunbeams. Let them bring a dose of summer sunshine to your outfit, any time of year.
We have recently added a cache of new cufflinks to our website—and have many more pairs to add in the weeks to come.
Let the Sun Shine! - VII
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
Pinwheels of light shine-forth from the faceted faces of these black mother-of-pearl cufflinks—reminiscent of a darkened sun-in-eclipse. Actually, the cufflinks are part of a larger "dress set": a matching suite of cufflinks and shirt studs for black tie. They have a handsome, understated Art Deco style—and are set into gold-plated mountings. They were made by Krementz in Newark, New Jersey in the Thirties and come in their original presentation box.
Let the Sun Shine! - VI
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again. These "snapping" cufflinks were patented in 1920—perfect timing for such a new invention—which was just about the time that most men had lost their valets (if they had ever had one to begin with). These cufflinks snap-apart into two halves; each half is inserted into the shirt cuff before dressing. The shirt is only then put-on, and the sleeves (that is, the cufflinks) are "snapped" closed with little fumbling. This design allows the man to use both hands to insert the cufflinks and avoids the awkward contortions sometimes required while inserting "old fashioned" cufflinks...
Let the Sun Shine! - V
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again. When describing cufflinks, the term "gold-fronted" is more commonly heard in England than it is in the States. Usually, it means a layer of gold is plied to a layer of sliver (or another less expensive metal), resulting, in this case, with a pair of cufflinks whose faces are made of the more precious metal. This pair of English Art Deco cufflinks are just such an example. Gold-fronted ovals are stamped and then decorated with "machine-turned" engraving—which creates the handsome optical band encircling the ovals. The resulting effect is of...
Let the Sun Shine! - IV
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again. Swirling rays of light—from the needles of a machine-turned etching machine—rise within the framed octagons of these Art Deco cufflinks from the Thirties. Though not marked with a specific gold content, many cufflinks of this quality had at least a small amount of gold in the alloy—or was finished with a layer of gold (or an alloy containing some gold). This is what has kept the cufflinks so bright after so many decades. This pair was made in Providence, Rhode Island, once the center of commercial jewelry production in the...
Let the Sun Shine! - III
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
These English Art Deco cufflinks glow from their mother-of-pearl faces. Etched upon them is graphic, intertwined "Moroccan Star"—a little taste of Orientalism, perhaps (if not the Gothic Revival). And, lest we forget, our Sun is, indeed, a star itself—one of millions of flaming bodies, hovering in the heavens above.
Let the Sun Shine! - II
We're celebrating the summer by sharing a collection of "sunny" cufflinks—little reminders on-the-cuff of the brightness and warmth which may leave with the season, but will always come back again.
These 9 karat gold Modernist cufflinks—hallmarked London, 1960—channel the energy of Carnaby Street's swank & swish: suede jackets, go-go boots, and the boundless optimism of the Age of Aquarius. A radiant sun beams down upon us all (or is that an upwards emanation?). And the "back" faces remain blank, making them perfect for monogramming, should that be desired.
Let the Sun Shine! - I
While we're soaking-up the summer warmth right now, let's not forget that the sun soon will be spending more time down South. The Autumn crisp will be here soon—followed by the Winter's chill.
We've recently loaded a new cache of cufflinks to our website (with many more pairs to come). Over the next several days, we'll be sharing pairs which are somehow reminiscent to the Summer Sun. Perhaps a pair of their shining faces will help you take the sun with you throughout the coming seasons, a small reminder that the Sun has gone—but it will come back.
Welcome, August
Let us welcome August and its birthstone, Sardonyx. Sardonyx is an agate variety of chalcedony, in which irregular bands of "Sard" are layered with irregular bands of "Onyx." In the natural state, sardonyx ranges in color from reddish to brownish with white, tan or cream layers shot-through. The gemstone can also be artificially dyed to create blues, greens or oranges. New Age believers tell us that sardonyx encourages integrity and good behavior, a lucky coincidence since the stone will also attract people to whomever holds or wears it. Sardonyx is believed to boost happiness, optimism and confidence. The Ancient Egyptians believed that sardonyx provided a protective benefit, hence they sometimes installed the stone in each corner of their homes. Roman warriors would...
"You Call It Buff'lo. I Call It Bison."
For an animal which has been long-glorified as an iconic American symbol, the bison has endured some pretty shabby treatment. At the founding of the country, as many as 100 million of the shaggy beasts roamed the wilderness. By the 1980's, only 1000 bison remained. And, yet, the bison has always been a potent symbol of American "rugged individuality." Luckily, the modern population is creeping upwards. First: the name. The American creature is a bison, not a buffalo. Buffalos are from Asia and Africa; Bison are from Europe and the Americas. Buffalo horns are longer and grow like a "handlebar mustache" (starting as a fat, flat "helmet" and curving as they grow outwards). Bison horns are shorter, sharper and grow more upwards...
God Loves a Terrier!
Anyone who has seen "Best in Show" will never forget Catherine O'Hara and Eugene Levy singing, at their backyard cookout, "God Loves a Terrier (Yes He Does!)" The movie also makes it clear that "Dog Show People" can get pretty picky about the specific and different varieties of dogs in the world—especially all those terrier breeds!. The American Kennel Club identifies 30 terrier breeds while the for-profit United Kennel Club identifies 44 different types. With such specificity at play, I find it unusual that the sculptor who modeled these cast iron bookends (in the 1920's) would choose to feature two different, albeit very handsome, terriers-in-profile. Surely a breeder or a terrier owner wants to see his or her specific breed featured in bas relief. Showing two varieties, while...
Just Passing Through...
In Germany, the Art Nouveau movement was called Jugendstil—roughly translated, "The Young Style." Like its sister movements in other parts of the world, Jugendstil was a departure from the prevailing design-style of the day. It sought a return to simple materials and honest hand-workmanship. Additionally, there was an inclination to incorporate organic and naturalistic elements into the design—animals, plants, raw natural materials and spontaneous glazes. The various worldwide Art Nouveau movements frequently incorporated into their work the Ancient or Medieval design themes of their homelands. In England, designers revived Medieval chivalric tales and characters. In America, designers employed Native American decorative elements. And, in the case of the German wrought iron candle sconce, shown above, the designer features a brass seagoing vessel...
Fit for a King
World History is replete with great artists. And I love many of them! Yet, if nudged (even lightly), it's easy for me to name the greatest of all time: Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475 -1564). He was a great architect: note the dome of San Pietro in Rome. He was a great painter: note the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, also in Rome. And he could really lay-out a square: note the fabulous Piazza del Campidoglio, yes, in Rome. That's a lot of Rome for a Florentine! But it makes sense, for Rome was pretty much the center of the world in Michelangelo's time. He was brought to where the rich and powerful resided. But don't feel too badly for Florence; he...
Pins & Needles
If you must have "Pins & Needles," this is the way to go. A cast pewter "Oxford Shoe"—made in the Twenties in Japan—is fitted with an interior pincushion. It provides a handsome and handy way to keep your sewing supplies organized and ready-at-hand.
At Long Last!
Today—at long last—the world re-enters the zodiac sun sign of LEO, after a long eleven month wait. And what an eleven months it has been! Additionally, tonight, we will also experience a full moon, known as a "Buck Moon" since this is the time of year when male deer are found in fullest antler.
In truth, I'm not a very superstitious person, and I only enjoy astrology to the extent that the different signs really do seem to describe the personalities (and idiosyncrasies) of the twelve group members. Perhaps the best reason I have for acknowledging the zodiac is that fate has granted me such a good (and flattering) birth sign: LEO!
Seeking Still Waters
What could be nicer on a glorious summer day—perhaps in the early evening, before the sun has disappeared—than to row across a placid lake, surrounded by trees and mountains and birdsong? This little pewter rowboat is finely modeled and very well cast. It is perfect for holding clips, candies or cufflinks—or, best of all, business cards. It could be the perfect little gift for a boat-loving friend (who still has to go to the office).
A Clean Start
Between the World Wars, modern design existed in an aesthetic "sweet spot"—a handsome (and useful) blending of Art Deco crispness and Industrial streamlined practicality. The growing use of mass production methods allowed for good design to be manufactured quickly, consistently and inexpensively.
This tiled and chromed "wash station" might have hung next to a shop sink or in a public bathroom. The whole unit hangs on the wall. A hook at top is for holding a washing cloth or nail brush. A bar of soap would rest in the removable ironstone dish, below. The tile back is surrounded by handsome chromed edging. Click on the photo above to learn more about it.
It's Winter in Australia
We've just reached the mid-point of Winter in Australia. Forecasts call for a low of 50º F in Melbourne today—a temperature many would relish during the depths of Winter's chill.
This hand-painted tin kangaroo was made in the 1920's or 1930's as a collectable toy for a small child. Like many Australians, he was made in England before leaving for sunnier shores. Maybe he was part of a larger collection, for example, a collection of "zoo animals" or "circus creatures." But he's single (at the moment) and waiting to find a new home. Please click on the photo above to learn more about him.
Serious Charm
Tangible items accrue even more relevance during times of drama, uncertainty or an encounter with life-and-death anxiety. A simple token can become an emotional lifeline when one's beloved is in peril—and may never return alive. Such was the case for hundreds of millions of people—spouses, children, parents and friends—who sent a loved one (usually a young man) off to fight in World War One. 70 million soldiers fought. 10 million soldiers died (alongside another 10 million civilians killed). 20 million people sustained serious physical injury. And we are still coming to terms with the extent of the emotional trauma the war inflicted. This French "Sweetheart Bracelet" might have been given by a young soldier to his girlfriend or wife. It is a collection...
Vive la France
Today is Bastille Day—called Fête nationale in French—the annual celebration commemorating the Storming of the Bastille in 1789. The Bastille was a fortress in Paris in which political enemies were sometimes held—often unjustly and simply at the whim of the King. The Storming of the Bastille, during which some of the King's political prisoners were liberated, is a major landmark in the French Revolution, a struggle which ended the country's monarchy. 14 July is still celebrated today as one of France's most important "historic" holidays, perhaps comparable to 4 July in the States. There are parties, parades, a great deal of pageantry and showy displays of military power. And lots of Red, White and Blue. Another treasured symbol of those who fought for Liberté, egalité...
Long Before the Beatles
Long before the Beatles confounded music-mystery cryptologists with their 1967 psychedelic psalm, this little toy walrus delighted a child between the world wars. He was made in England of cast tin and was nicely hand-painted. Perhaps he was part of a larger group—a collection of wild creatures, zoo animals, or the passengers on Noah's Ark—a menagerie now since scattered around the world.
Oh, For The Good Old Days . . .
Product packing can be many things: it can be attractive or ugly; it can be protective or ineffective; it can be thrown-away immediately or re-used for years to come (or decades or a century). This "package," an Edwardian English biscuit tin, originally would have contained cookies (maybe as a gift), over a century ago. Topped with a white ceramic knob, it was made to last—with great style and utility. Perhaps a paper label once surrounded the walls of the canister. But good design and good taste have left us with a handsome vessel which can still be used 12 decades later. Oh, that today's packaging designers would produce work that is so nice, so useful and so worthy of saving. Click...
Lost Arts
Before mobile phones and Netflix, people spent their evenings pursuing the arts, literature or hobbies. Edwardian English women (and those that preceded them) often sewed in the evening—whether practicing needlepoint, producing embroidery, or tending to the more mundane tasks of mending clothing. A stitcher's pins and needles needed a safe place to be stored—a place which would keep the points safely out of harm's way while making it easy to retrieve one when needed. Decorative "pin cushions" became popular. Sometimes novel pin cushions would be purchased as souvenirs or given as gifts. The Edwardian English brass boot, shown above, comes complete with laces and a felt pin cushion. It might have sat in a day room or been kept in...
A Refreshing Cool
While the extreme heat blazes in the Pacific Northwest, here in the East we've been granted a reprieve from our recent high temps. Last night the temperature dipped to 57º—a remarkable blessing when it's been so hot lately. In fact, I had to get up in the middle of the night to (partially) close the bedroom window. America prays that the devastating hot weather lifts and that people in the West pass-through this awful chapter of weather history. Some high-level emissions remediation would also be a big help. Hot as it is down here, these playful penguins are keeping cool (in style). The pair is made of hand-painted cast tin—made in England in the 1920's or 1930's—and would have been a...
Perfect with a Tan
If you must dress-up during the summer, why not take advantage of the season? Imagine this handsome pair of English Art Deco cufflinks, fastening a crisp, light-blue shirt, against a perfectly summer-tanned wrist. The mother-of-pearl irises will certainly "pop" while the blue tone of the surrounding color will be pulled forward. And the golden settings will certainly add its own measure of summer warmth.
Not Lion
July begins tomorrow—no lion—which marks the start of the second half of the year! It is also the month which introduces the wonderful sun sign, LEO! This bronze lion sculpture is probably English, made in the late Victorian era. In heraldry, he'd be referred to as a Lion Couchant, that is, bearing the "attitude" of lying on his belly, paws forward, looking forward. Lions have been well-utilized in royal heraldry from the Medieval age, and each "pose" (or attitude) has a different name and conveys a different meaning. Family (or individual) crests, military banners, and even decorative carving have captured lions in a wide variety of poses like the Lion Rampant (standing on his hind legs, front paws raised in attack), the...
Summer School
If you thought this would be a kick-back summer, perhaps you'd better think again. "Science and Study" are the name of the game—at least according to the weary monks on these handsome bookends from the 1920's. They were made by Bradley & Hubbard (Meriden, Connecticut) of cast iron and patinated with two bronze finishes: a traditional dark brown and a golden patina on the bas relief. They are quite heavy—ideal for holding up those oversized illuminated manuscripts. Or your physics, calculus and biology tomes.
A "New" President
Over the years, I've collected and sold many pairs of bookends. America's 16th President—Abraham Lincoln—has always been a popular subject. By now, I thought I was familiar with the various "Lincoln Designs" which had been made, mostly in the 1920's. And then I found this pair, which I had never seen (nor owned) in the past. They were made by Bradley & Hubbard and have the characteristic heft for which the manufacturer is known. But, in this pair of bookends, the President's image, which includes his upper torso, is fully in-profile (not a three-quarter resemblance) and the sculpted portion is a bit smaller than most other renderings—creating a handsomely tasteful depiction. To my eye, it looks a little more "old fashioned" than...
Father's Day
These extraordinary bookends, made almost 100 years ago, celebrate a quiet moment of a father spending time with his son. The father is President Abraham Lincoln and he is reading to his youngest son, Tad, who would have been about 10 or 11 years old at the time. The bookends were sculpted by artist Olga Popoff Muller as a special commission for the New York Decorative Arts League in 1922. She based the composition on a well-known photo by pioneering photographic portraitist Matthew Brady (taken in 1864). I have not been able to find much information about the sculptress, Olga Popoff Muller—a surprise considering the quality of her work as shown in these bookends. She was born in New York City...
Countdown to Father's Day - X
There is a long history of handsome desk sets gracing well-appointed desks. My favorite period is from 1850 to 1950, after which Art Deco ended and imported plastic made its debut. At the top end, companies like Tiffany Studios in New York made handsome bronze desk sets—with numerous different types of pieces in several different styles and metal finish options. In the first quarter of the Twentieth Century, while Jugendstil was au courant in Germany, pieces like these (shown above) were made for use on tasteful desks. A pewter box and card holder are "studded" with three dimensional diamonds, giving the set a touch of medieval gothic style.
Countdown to Father's Day - IX
There is a lot of action packed within the bas relief sculpting of these bookends from the 1920's. Saint George, astride his rearing horse, is delivering the coup de grâce to the Devil (here represented as a dragon who had been threatening a maiden).
These bronze-clad bookends tick the boxes for many "types" of fathers, including those who like: heroics, action themes, horses, Saint George, dragons, good sculpture, medieval mythology, armor, lances or (even) books.
Countdown to Father's Day - VIII
I've sold hundreds of pairs of cufflinks over the years—covering many periods, aesthetics, materials and colors. But, if I had to identify "a best seller," it would be "Blue Art Deco." Art Deco graphics are widely-popular, perhaps because the graphics can be as bold as they wish, and yet, when restrained within a postage stamp-sized area, they are never overbearing. And blue is popular because it's so easy to wear. Who doesn't like blue?
This pair of English Art Deco cufflinks have bold, parallel stripes of navy enameling, separated by lines of sky blue enameled dots. Gently regimental—without being militaristic—they would look great on a white, blue or pink dress shirt.
Countdown to Father's Day - VI
Few animals are as impressive as a massive bull elephant—worked-up, stomping and ready to protect his family. These majestic creatures will often live to the ripe-old-age of 65 or 70 when left unmolested in the wild, not that much different from humans. And, yet, the animal is so improbably designed—with its heavy, lumpy body, thick, lumbering legs, ivory tusks, and ridiculously extended proboscis. I'd love, someday, to see a group of elephants in the wild. I'm sure it would be an experience I would never forget.
Countdown to Father's Day - V
Off the Western coast of Scotland, lies the mystical island of Iona. It has been inhabited by humans since the Iron Age (approximately 1,000 years BC) but became most famous when Saint Columba (from Ireland) founded a monastery here in 563 AD. This was the beginning of Scottish Christianity. The monastery, which still stands today, is not large, but it exhibits wonderful details of early Medieval architecture. Today, the island remains a popular destination for spiritual pilgrims and tourists seeking a contemplative place to meditate and relax. A sophisticated culture of quality handcraft exists on the island, providing visitors to help support the abbey and the local economy. These silver cufflinks, made in the period after World War Two, exhibit the...
Countdown to Father's Day - IV
For decades, the pipe was the classic "dad accessory." Even those who generally do not like smoking (like me), sometimes have to admit that the smell of burning pipe tobacco could sometimes be (at least) a little pleasant. This handsome Arts & Crafts brass pipe rack, made in England around 1900, holds five pipes. It is decorated with hand-hammered repoussé birds and scrolling botanicals and has two rings with which one can hang it on a wall. Even beyond its function as a pipe rack, it is beautiful as a piece of metal sculpture.
Countdown to Father's Day - I
As we approach Father's Day, we'd like to share a few select items—perfect for that "Dad with Great Taste." See them—and many other great gift options—in the on-line store at LEO Design. This very heavy pair of cast steel bookends were probably created to be given away by the foundry's salesmen—left behind on the desks of the purchasing agents who patronized the company, or perhaps sent as a holiday gift. Handsome, yes. Useful, sure. But also a constant reminder that McKeesport Steel Casting Company was at-the-ready—always prepared to write-up that next important order. They were made in the 1920's or 1930's in McKeesport, one of the many steel towns of Greater Pittsburgh, "The Steel City." Because these were made for "promotional use...
Precious Little Boxes - 4
Let's end our little parade of "Precious Little Boxes" with this offering, currently available in the on-line shop of LEO Design. It was made in the 1930's in France for an American cosmetic company. It was a fancy little box made to hold a cake of make-up powder—one that could be carried in a handbag for an on-the-go touchup. The aluminum compact has been machine-engraved with a handsome, radiant pattern then finished with a bit of enameling around the circumference of the cover. The cake of powder is now gone, of course, but the box itself could live on as a place to hold pills, baby teeth or a cherished ring. Click on the photo above to learn more about...
Precious Little Boxes - 3
The round shape of this Edwardian Scottish agate pillbox gives it a Georgian sensibility. (It is also quite Modernist, too.) Rondels of banded agate—in coffee browns, tans and whites—are bevelled and set within the silver-plated structure of the box. The spontaneous (and uncontrolled) striations in the stone juxtapose beautifully with the simple, almost clinical sensibility of the metalwork. Use a box like this to hold pills, conceal jewelry (like cufflinks or an engagement ring), or to present the house key to a new homeowner.
Precious Little Boxes - 2
"Moss Agate" is a semi-precious gemstone, a variety of chalcedony, in which minerals have crystallized in shapes suggestive of moss. Actually, there is no vegetative matter—let alone moss—within the stone. The stone itself can be milky, cloudy or clear, allowing the "moss" to create visible, beautiful formations, sometime in the form of a tree line or an arrangement reminiscent of a landscape.
This Edwardian Scottish pillbox, circa 1905, is made of two pieces of rusty red moss agate. Iron deposits within the stone create a reddish appearance. With a close look, one can see that the stone is partially clear—allowing a nice view of the fluffy "moss" within. The box is finished with floral-engraved, gold-plated walls.
Precious Little Boxes - 1
Nice little boxes can be very useful. Holding pills on a kitchen shelf, storing cufflinks at the bedside, or presenting a long-anticipated wedding ring to a future spouse—little boxes can combine function with tremendous style.
This little oval pillbox, made in Edwardian Scotland (c. 1905), is crafted of two beveled ovals of banded agate—browns, caramels, tans and whites. "Engraved" gold-plated sides complete the look handsomely.
More Stately Charm
Here's another handsome brooch, this time Scottish. It features a polished banded agate cabochon in multiple shades of browns and whites. It is set into a silver mount, lapel pin attached. It has almost an "abstract expressionist" sensibility—remarkable considering that the stone itself may be a million years old.
Creamy, Dreamy
I don't really go-out on the hunt for women's jewelry very often. But, while I'm searching for cufflinks, I sometimes come across a handsome piece of women's jewelry (often Victorian or Edwardian) that really speaks to me. No one would accuse me of selecting "girly" pieces. In fact, there is often a "stately handsomeness" to the pieces of women's jewelry I collect. This usually means serious (perhaps solemn) stonework and metalwork that revives the Gothic. Queen Victoria spent almost 40 years of her reign as a widow, and she wore dark and heavy mourning wear from her husband's passing in 1861 until her death in 1901. She set the fashion trends for her fellow countrywomen, especially the aristocracy. Thus, luckily for...
Welcome, June!
The birthstone for the month of June is not a "stone" at all. It is the pearl—the mysterious and exotic and (at one time) ultra-rare treasure from the seas. Pearls, which represent purity, innocence and humility, were once the most precious of all the jewels. Egyptian aristocrats would be buried with their pearls. The Ancient Greeks believed that pearls were the tears of the gods. The Bible tells of the wise merchant who would sell all his stock in order to acquire one perfect pearl. And "pearls before swine" is a classic metaphor for wasting something on a person who cannot understand or appreciate it. Even the Gates of Heaven are encrusted with pearls—"The Pearly Gates." The famous American gemologist...
Perilous Waters
In recent weeks, Shakespeare has been called-out for having been insensitive to important issues of racial injustice, White privilege and colonial oppression. British academics are reviewing The Bard's works to highlight the offensive language—and to adapt that which can be saved and cancel that which is unredeemable.
I am not writing an essay on cancel culture. But I'd hate to see Shakespeare revoked. Let me make six quick points:
On the Hunt
I have never been a hunter. Or have I?
As an antiques dealer, I've frequently woken-up well before sunrise. I've dressed for inclement, outdoor weather. I've prepared my gear (cash, notepad, bubblewrap). I've travelled long and inconvenient distances to "the best hunting spots." And I've methodically stalked my quarry—sometimes in frenzied competition with my fellow hunters. The goal: to make a "clean kill" (that is, a profitable purchase) after which I will "dress" (clean and prepare) the game, and drag it back to the shop (hoping it will someday feed my family). Once in a while, I will keep a particularly prized specimen as "a trophy" for my collection.
Revisiting History
Amongst the nicest—and heaviest—bookends I've ever carried, these stunners were made by Judd Manufacturing in Wallingford, Connecticut in the 1920's. They are made of cast iron, but refined with a bronze finish, which provides a smoother, more sophisticated surface appearance. And the sculpting is very well done. The handsome chief, shown in full, feathered headdress, is modeled with great skill and attention to detail.
Judd Manufacturing
Judd Manufacturing got its start as a blacksmith foundry in New Britain, Connecticut during the Revolutionary War. It later reinventing itself as a harness maker, selling sleigh bells, saddles and other equestrian gear. Over the years, the company grew, changed hands within the family, and even split into two separate companies—one moving to Wallingford, CT and the other moving to New York City. In time, the New York City division prospered and bought-out the Connecticut factory. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Judd made decorative metalworks for household use: banks, doorstops, door-knockers, inkwells, animal sculptures and (most famously) bookends. The company was purchased by Stanley Works (New Britain, CT) in 1954.
Two Months 'til LEO
The sunsign LEO begins in two months—23 July! Spelter is an alloy, that is a blend of metals, with zinc as the main component. Like bronze, spelter can be cast with very crisp, delicate details. Yet it is lighter and less expensive than bronze, making it an attractive alternative for sculptures and other metal objets (especially those which are not subject to rough handling, extreme weather or heavy use). The Viennese are well-known for their excellent cold-painted bronze and spelter sculptures. "Cold Painting" is the process by which finished sculptures are hand-painted with an enamel paint after the metal object has been cast and prepared. Great detail and fine paintwork is possible—though the paint is subject to chipping if roughly handled...
Wisdom
Wisdom just isn't what it used to be. For millennia, scholars, writers, theologians, philosophers and kings have sung the praises of Wisdom—the ability to think and act with understanding, knowledge, experience, prudence and common sense. The Old Testament devotes a book to Wisdom. Solomon valued Wisdom above all other blessings. Jesus preached about the wise steward, the wise builder and the five wise virgins (with their lamps). Saint Thomas Aquinas called Wisdom "the father of all the virtues." Even the word philosophy means "the love of Wisdom." She (for Wisdom is always a woman) was personified: the Greek goddess Athena and the Roman goddess Minerva represented this most important virtue. And artists through the ages have painted and sculpted...
Accessories for the Natural Man - XVIII
An understated white-speckled brown enamel inhabits one corner of these English Art Deco cufflinks from the 1930's. Directly across the face, the chromed metal is broken into two fields: one is textured while the other is smooth. In the center, running diagonally between the fields is a cream enameled bar. Lots of activity and lots of motion make for a dynamic design, quite unlike any other cufflinks.
Accessories for the Natural Man - XVII
Here's another handsome pair of English Art Deco cufflinks. This time, the face of the cufflink is bisected with a deep furrow, slashing-though the color blocks of brown and white enameling. And while the coloration of the enamel is understated, the visual effect is nonetheless bold. Made in the Thirties in England.
Accessories for the Natural Man - XVI
"Soft squares" of black mother-of-pearl are machine engraved with a flower petal design (also known as a "corollate"design) and mounted into art deco settings. They make for a handsome cufflink, well-suited to shirts (or shirt stripes) of many different color variations.
Accessories for the Natural Man - XV
Art Deco was vastly popular—and it lived a good long life. After World War One, Americans (and others) felt that they were now living in a new, modern world. They embraced the streamlined, forward-looking aesthetics of the Art Deco movement. And, luckily, Art Deco was perfectly suited for the kind of mass production that was necessary to make a lot of new stuff to satisfy a growing, post-war middle class.
These English Art Deco cufflinks are chromed and then punctuated with chocolate and cappuccino enameling. If you want, you can imagine that the graphic symbolizes "V for Victory"—though, in truth, these cufflinks were made a few years before the war touched-down in England.
Accessories for the Natural Man - XIV
The crisp, bold graphic on these cufflinks—presented in unusual rootbeer and taupe enameling—makes me think of the "V" in "Victory." It's easy to see victory everywhere, especially in hindsight, when looking at something English from the Thirties or Forties. But British victory in the war was never a certainty. World War Two was fought hard and long—and the British paid dearly for their win. As for these cufflink graphics, they were probably made well before England entered the war (or even before there was a war). So I guess I'm just being a romantic, or, perhaps, fanciful. What is true is that these cufflinks are quite unique, especially regarding their coloration, and they do enjoy a strong and handsome graphic design....
Accessories for the Natural Man - XIII
A few days ago, we shared some "Toledo" cufflinks—damascened, mixed -metal accessories in the traditional Central Spanish style. Here's another pair. The body of this cufflink is quite interesting; it resembles the cross-section of galleon's hull, laden with treasures, no doubt.
Accessories for the Natural Man - XII
Though I purchased these cufflinks in London, I have never been convinced that they were made in England. Something about the "large stone" slightly fascist design hinted at an Eastern European (or Soviet Bloc) origin. They are set in Art Deco mounts—indicating that they are from the Thirties—a period when such "Brutalist" stonework was not really en vogue in the British Isles. In this regard, they are just slightly ahead of their time. (Big-stone cufflinks became popular after World War II, even more so in the Sixties and Seventies). Regardless of the time or place of creation, one must admit that the banded agate is simply beautiful. Caramels, whites and rootbeer colors form spontaneous streaks of stone—which was then cut, bevelled, polished...
Accessories for the Natural Man - XI
The Scots love their stones! From the rusticated architectural building-blocks in Edinburgh to the inlaid agates in their "Penannular" shawl-fasteners. And what seems to be important isn't whether the gemstone itself is valuable in the eyes of the world but, rather, is the stone colorful, beautiful, and Scottish in origin. Like so many things Scottish, the best things come from the land. My favorite things in Scotland are hard, durable and weather-beaten. After all, this is a country represented by the thistle—a wiry, spiky and tenacious plant which clings to life in the rocky, cold and windswept mountain terrain. These cufflinks, made in the 1920's, are fashioned from oval cabochons of polished "hardstone"—mostly oxblood, with a dose of brown, and...
Accessories for the Natural Man - X
We're spending a few days showcasing some accessories "for the Natural Man"—cufflinks in the subtle, low-key shades of brown, rust, cream, black and white. You'll find them (and many others) for sale on the LEO Design website.
These black mother-of-pearl cufflinks are ultra-iridescent—the "highlight colors" are lush and varied. They are set into gold-plated mounts and you can learn more about them by clicking on the photo above.
Accessories for the Natural Man - IX
In the 1930's, functional graphics in England took on a particular look—clear, soft, round—and one can see great examples of this in vintage enameled railway signage from the period. Sometimes the signage was in brown, sky blue or green, giving the signage a "softer" more natural appearance. This contrasts with American signage of the period which was often red, yellow, orange, black or white—meant to "pop" not "complement" the surroundings. Furthermore, many of the signs were produced with rounded corners which served to soften the sign's appearance even more.
Accessories for the Natural Man - VIII
Tracery is most often associated with Gothic architecture—for example the lacey, carved-stone windows in a church (usually filled with stained glass) or pierced woodwork (including trefoils and quatrefoils) that decorates the interior. These Art Deco cufflinks, while they make no pretense to Gothic style, have metallic tracery overlays which are derivative of the Medieval style. The gilt metalwork lies upon mother-of-pearl faces and are set into gilt (that is, lightly gold-plated) mountings. Click upon the photo above to learn more about them.
Accessories for the Natural Man - VII
This pair of goldstone cufflinks is as "flashy" as we will get this week. In truth, "goldstone" is not a stone at all; it is a glass carrying suspended copper crystals which create a sparkling, metallic optical effect. For centuries, goldstone was believed to have been invented in Venice by the Miotti family of glassmakers. In the 1600's, the Venetian Doge granted the family an exclusive license to produce goldstone. More recently, a Persian amulet (dating from the 12th or 13th century) has been discovered, showing that goldstone had been produced elsewhere and earlier.
Accessories for the Natural Man - VI
At first glance, these cufflinks seem to have very little decoration to them. But, upon closer inspection, there is quite a bit of subtle detail work which adorns them. First, they are crafted in an interesting, modernist "lozenge" shape—essentially a soft rectangle. Then the centers are etched with very fine diagonal lines. The end quarters are etched with a contrasting crosshatch effect. Finally, two of the corners are "dipped" into brown enameling, giving the piece an interesting "twisting energy." But all of this is only appreciated by someone who takes the time to study and understand the cufflinks.
Accessories for the Natural Man - V
Toledo is an ancient city in Central Spain, about 45 miles south of Madrid. In Medieval times, it was known as a place where Christians, Jews and Muslims lived together (for better or worse), with each group contributing art, architecture and cuisine to create a rich, blended culture. But long before this, Toledo made its mark as the place where the finest forged-steel swords were made. Metalsmiths in Toledo invented a technique of forging hard and soft steels together, creating swords that were strong and flexible. From 500 BC, the Romans discovered that they wanted their weapons from Toledo.
Accessories for the Natural Man - IV
Every now and then, a customer will want to buy a pair of cufflinks for a young man. Sometimes he's about to graduate from high school or university. Or, perhaps, he's been invited to his first dressy function. This will be the young man's first pair of cufflinks—and the shopper asks for a little advice.
White mother-of-pearl cufflinks are the most neutral and one can never go wrong wearing them with black tie or a dinner jacket. But white (dressy) mother-of-pearl cufflinks always exude a formal disposition—and a man with his first (and only) pair of cufflinks may want to be able to wear them with other shirts, on other occasions. In this case, I always recommend black mother-or-pearl.
Accessories for the Natural Man - III
Many people assume that the "repp" in "Repp Stripe" refers to the repeating pattern of distinctive, colored stripes often shown in ties or foulards. In truth, "repp" refers to the repeating tiny ribs woven into the silk fabric from which the ties are made (regardless of the color pattern). In the Medieval age, groups of knights would enter battle wearing distinctive heraldic colors or carrying flags which indicated the fighting team to which they belonged. Repp stripes are an evolution of this idea, adopted by (originally male) groups to distinguish themselves from other groups: schools, military regiments, social clubs, sports teams. Customized striped patterns and colors would be adopted as the "modern heraldry" of a specific group, usually woven into...
Accessories for the Natural Man - II
These understated Soviet cufflinks (hallmarked 1921 to 1958) are made of jasper—the opaque, highly polishable stone that comes in shades of brown, red, yellow or green. Jasper has been used as a coveted gemstone for millennia. Official seals made of carved jasper (used for authorizing or sealing documents), dating from 1800 BC, have been unearthed in the Minoan Palace of Knossos in Crete. Large pieces of jasper have also been crafted into boxes, urns, sculpture and architectural elements like the balustrades on a grand staircase.
The metal mountings on these Soviet cufflinks are silver which has been plated in a gold "vermeil."
Accessories for the Natural Man - I
Some men like to keep things understated. No flash. No bling. For them, we present a collection of "natural accessories"—cufflinks in decidedly "earthy" shades: brown, rust, black, cream and white (plus silver and gold). Call it an "Homage to the Seventies" or a solution for the modest mate. Find these cufflinks for the Natural Man on our website at LEO Design. Art Deco was a large and widely popular design movement. It conveyed "a modern feel," in keeping with the modern times after World War I. It was well-suited to mass production methods, necessary to satisfy a growing middle class with new-found leisure time and increasing disposable income (in contrast to earlier movements which required much more labor-intensive "handcraft"). And the Art Deco...
The King-of-the-Jungle
In nearly every world culture, the lion is admired (and equally feared) as a symbol of royalty, fierceness and brave leadership. To "lionize" a person is rarely considered an insult. That's why the lion is called "The King-of-the-Jungle" and is often included in the heraldry of nobility wherever lions are known.
In three short months, we'll be in the middle of the LEO sunsign (23 July - 22 August). Perhaps a handsome pair of bookends will make your favorite LEO happy? This pair, made of cast iron in the 1920's, are graced with a regal bas relief portrait of a male lion.
Japanning
With the increasing trade between Europe and Asia in the 1600's, Europeans got their first exposure to many Asian craft forms previously unknown in the West. Rich Europeans went wild! They loved the Asian ceramics, woodcarving and metalworks brought-home by merchants—and they spent big money expanding their collections. One of these "new" crafts was lacquerware. Europeans couldn't quite figure-out how to duplicate the Asian laquer process (in part because the necessary tree sap did not grow in Europe). Furthermore, European collectors began to suspect that Asian lacquer craftsmen were holding-back their very best pieces for their domestic collectors (which is not surprising). So, in the 17th Century, the Italians developed a faux laquerware which came to be called "Japanning." It did not use the proper Asian tree...
Great Writers: Dante
Italy's greatest writer (indeed, one of the Western World's most important writers), Dante Alighieri, was born in Florence in 1265. Alas, he found himself on the wrong side of a political battle in his home city. After supporting the (losing) White Guelphs, Dante was banished—upon pain of death—from his beloved Florence. After a bit of moving around, he settled in Ravenna, some 90 miles from Florence, where he died and is entombed to this day. Dante's greatest work, The Divine Comedy, was written during his exile. It is considered one of the most important works of literature of all time, in any language. And, unlike other important Medieval writers who wrote in Latin, Dante wrote in the vulgate, specifically the Italian Tuscan dialect. After...
Great Writers: Shakespeare
We don't know the precise date on which William Shakespeare was born. There is, however, a church record showing that he was baptized on 26 April 1564. He was probably born a couple (or a few) days earlier. 23 April has become a popular birth date speculation—which also happens to be the day he died in 1616.
Although Shakespeare's first days are shrouded in mystery, his works—poetry, sonnets and plays—are famously the most important body of work written in the English language. Through the astounding range of plays, characters and dramatic situations he crafted, Shakespeare distilled the essence of what it means to be a human—plays, characters and human situations which still resonate today.
Great Writers: Longfellow
"The Song of Hiawatha" is an epic poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, published in 1855. It follows a number of American Indian characters—notably the warrior Hiawatha and his lover Minnehaha—along the southern shore of Lake Superior. It was an immediate success, selling over 50,000 copies in its first two years, and it created an indelible impression of Indian life and people in the popular imagination. Critics condemn the poem as the romantic creation of a non-native writer. Longfellow's source materials and understanding of real Native American culture have been called into question. Nevertheless, it is a monumental work of American Romantic literature and it played an important role in Nineteenth Century popular culture.
Champ & Major
After four years without (live) animals in the White House, first family pets are back! Champ and Major are two male German Shepherds, the family pets of the Biden family. Champ, now twelve years old, was purchased by Joe Biden from a Pennsylvania breeder to fulfill a promise to his wife—that he would get another family dog if he and Barack Obama won the 2008 election. Major is three years old and is the first rescue dog to live in the White House. Joe Biden's father would sometimes call the future president "Champ"—and this nickname was passed along to the older dog. The younger dog may have received his name as a tribute to Biden's deceased son, Beau, who was an Army...
Christening Cup
Baptism is an important (some would say vital) rite within the Christian Church. The ceremony, usually followed with a meal or other gathering, has become an opportunity to give a meaningful gift to the little one. In the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries, silver became the gift of choice as the precious metal was believed to confer healthful properties and was also a symbol of prosperity. Thus, a silver Christening gift would convey a wish for the health and success of the newborn. Since the Victorian Age, useful gifts—especially items associated with nourishment—have been popular. Silver spoons (perhaps engraved with the baptismal date) were very common (and could be used to feed the child). Cups, bowls and egg cups were other functional choices. Sometimes...