Mother-of-Pearl has been a classic button material for centuries—whether those buttons were sewn-on or whether they consisted of a separate, unattached fastener. In the early days, buttons were primarily decorative—utilized to exhibit wealth, rank or status. In fact, the trend of using buttons to express affluence lead some Puritanical governments to impose a tax upon them—to discourage such conspicuous displays of riches. The material of buttons—which replaced ties and clasps—ran the gamut from the common to the exquisite, depending upon the pocketbook of the owner. Wood and bone were the most affordable materials. Pewter, horn and (later) brass were a little more expensive. And precious metals, fine enameling and gemstones were within reach of only the wealthiest. By the Twentieth Century, when mass-produced, ready-to-wear garments were developed, most buttons were designed for functionality, no longer "glitz and showmanship." And new, modern age materials (like resins, bakelite and plastics) grew in importance as more and more buttons were needed. Of course, at various times in the Twentieth Century, some designers utilized buttons—bold or fancy—as a fundamental element of fashion design. And military buttons have always remained an important element of uniform design, conveying rank, authority or meticulousness of dress.
The mother-of-pearl "dress set," shown above, straddles the Art Deco period of the Thirties and the Modernist era which followed. They were made in the Thirties or Forties by Krementz (Newark, New Jersey). The "soft-square" shape was popular in Modern design, perhaps an expression of the "biomorphism" which informed post-war aesthetics.
Krementz, though it was a high-volume producer, always seemed to put a little extra "fit and finish" into their products. The reverse side of these cufflinks are beautifully and cleanly finished, with a gold-plated back. The edges are rimmed in platinum. The dress set comprises a pair of cufflinks with three matching shirt studs. Three studs was common in the Thirties and Forties as most men's fancy dress included a bow tie, a vest or a cummerbund (and only three buttonholes would be exposed).
Click on the photo above to learn more about this handsome dress set.
More Winter White items to come—tomorrow and in the days to follow.
Though our Greenwich Village store is now permanently closed, LEO Design is still alive and well! Please visit our on-line store where we continue to sell Handsome Gifts (www.LEOdesignNYC.com).
To arrange a visit our Pittsburgh showroom (by private appointment only), please call 917-446-4248.