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In Search of the Pharaoh's Daughter - XVII

Hadrian's Arch at the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)

 

The ancient city of Jerash is amongst the best-preserved Roman cities outside of Italy.  It lies about 30 miles North of Amman, Jordan (previously known by its Greek name, "Philadelphia").  Ancient Greeks called the city "Gerasa."  While very old human remains have been found in the area (possibly dating from 7,500 BC), the city really got its start under Alexander the Great—while he was heading home from Egypt in 331 BC.  After Greek rule, it was possessed by Jews, Romans, Byzantine Christians, and Muslims.  After a massive, destructive earthquake in 749 AD, the city seems to have been abandoned for several centuries until Crusader armies camped here in the Twelfth Century.  In time, Ottoman Muslims took the city.

The years 100 BC to 100 AD were particularly busy in Jerash.  It was part of the Decapolis—ten important cities of the Roman Empire.  Under Roman rule, Jerash was protected, stable and focused on building its wealth.  During the First Jewish-Roman War (Jewish revolt against Roman occupiers, 66-74 AD), Jews in Jerash were not imprisoned or killed (as they were elsewhere).  On the contrary, those Jews who chose to leave for Judea would be escorted to the Judean border in safety.  Emperor Hadrian visited in the year 130 AD, at which time the Triumphal Arch of Hadrian, shown above, was built to commemorate his reign.

  

Rows of Columns Along Paved Streetway in the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)

 

The city is modeled on other great Roman cities: fortified with walls and subdivided into residential, commercial and entertainment districts.  Shown above, one of several intersecting streets, paved in limestone, and lined with columns—the remnants of the original colonnades which ran alongside each thoroughfare.  This street is a decumanus, that is, one of the side streets which intersect with the wider, main thoroughfare which runs through the city.

  

Manhole Cover in the Limestone-Paved Street of the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)

 

Every several yards, one can find an original "manhole," covered with a carved limestone plug.

 

Traces of Chariot Tracks on the Limestone Pavement of the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)

 

And, if you look closely, you can see wear on the pavement from the wheels of chariots which once travelled over these paving stones.

 

The North Theatre at the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)
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Theatre was a very popular entertainment throughout the Roman Empire.  Shown above, the North Theatre, one of three theaters at Jerash.  The North Theatre was the smallest and most exclusive of the three venues.  It accommodated an audience of 800.
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Audience Passageway Around the North Theatre of the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)
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Between the lower and upper seating areas, a semicircular, concealed audience "passageway" runs behind the house.  This provided the entrance to the theatre and allowed the audience to access their seating section.
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Horse Stalls Under the Limestone Grandstand of the Hippodrome at the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)
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Theatre was not the only entertainment for the Ancients.  Horse racing (and chariots and gladiatorial sports) was popular, too.  Shown above, a horse stall under the seating of the Hippodrome—an oval racetrack at which races and blood sports were mounted for the citizens.
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Fallen Hand-Carved Stone Moulding at the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)
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Over the years, carved lengths of stone have fallen, probably from the entablature once supported above the columns.  Shown here, a portion of that stone moulding.  "Egg & Dart" and "Dentil" profiles, both shown here, are still popular moulding styles to this day.
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Rare, Finely-Preserved Corinthian Capitals at the Ancient Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)
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At the unfinished Temple of Artemis, built in the First and Second Centuries AD.  Artemis was a very popular deity, throughout the Greek Empire, and was the patron goddess of Ancient Jerash. It seems that construction of the temple came to an end with the arrival of the Byzantine Christians in the Fourth Century—who banished the pagan religions like the (previously very popular) cult of Artemis.  Only 12 of the planned 32 columns were ever erected, though they were signed by the carver, Hygeinos.  Because the building was not finished, and the entablature was not mounted, the Corinthian columns are remarkably well-preserved—as nothing was able to fall on them or encourage them to topple.
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Cities Ancient and Modern at the Roman City of Jerash, Jordan (LEO Design)
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Here we see two aspects of Jerash—the Ancient and the Modern—living side-by-side.
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Sunrise View from the Airplane Window Enroute from Amman, Jordan to Frankfurt, Germany (LEO Design)

 

All good journeys finally come to an end.  Here's my last shot, taken from the window of my flight from Amman, Jordan to Frankfurt, Germany.  As much as I loved every moment of these adventures, I'll be glad to sleep in my own bed.

 

 

Though our Greenwich Village store is now permanently closed, LEO Design is still alive and well!  Please visit our on-line store where we continue to sell Handsome Gifts (www.LEOdesignNYC.com). 

We also can be found in Canonsburg, Pennsylvania at The Antique Center of Strabane (www.antiquecenterofstrabane.com).

Or call to arrange to visit our Pittsburgh showroom (by private appointment only).  917-446-4248

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