In Search of the Pharaoh's Daughter - XIII


Booksellers Line the Narrow Alleys of Coptic Egypt (LEO Design)

 

It's our last day in Egypt and we decided to explore Cairo's Coptic Quarter—a neighborhood populated with some of Egypt's diminishing Christian population.  It's a lovely change of atmosphere from the gritty, bustling commotion of modern Cairo.  Almost zen-like.  Though full of people, the neighborhood seems to have a calm and centered air.

The word "Coptic," in its simplest sense, means "Egyptian."  "Coptic Christians" simply means "Egyptian Christians."  Though, today, the word Coptic (alone) has come to refer to Egyptian Christians.  The Coptic Orthodox Church has its own pope and rites and has been separate from the Roman Catholic or Greek Orthodox Churches since 451 AD.  Coptics name Saint Mark (who was evangelizing in Alexandria, Egypt) as their founder.  It is a very early Christian church.

 

Baldacchino in the Cavern Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus in Cairo's Coptic Quarter (LEO Design)

 

The Cavern Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus was built one thousand years ago (in the Eleventh Century) using earlier (Fourth Century) columns from an previous church on this site.   The masonry is wonderful but the carved wooden tracery—inlaid with ivory—is heavenly.

 

Wooden Tracery with Inlaid Ivory in the Cavern Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus in Cairo's Coptic Quarter (LEO Design)

 

This photo shows the portion of the screen over the door to the cavern below.

 

Detail of Wooden Tracery and Ivory Inlay in the Cavern Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus in Cairo's Coptic Quarter (LEO Design)

 

And here's a close-up of another panel.  It's unbelievably handsome.

 

Underground "Holy Family" Chapel in the Cavern Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus in Cairo's Coptic Quarter (LEO Design)

 

Under the church lies a small chapel, built on the spot where tradition tells us the Holy Family resided for a time—while fleeing Herod during the Massacre of the Innocents. Recall that Joseph (and his pregnant wife) had to travel to Bethlehem for the mandatory census.  While here, after Jesus was born, they learn that Herod has ordered that all male children under the age of two were to be slaughtered.  The Magi had informed Herod that the stars indicated that a new king had been born.  Herod was not to be usurped.   Joseph, Mary and Jesus fled to Egypt for a time, and, we are told, hid in this spot in what is now Cairo.

 

Carved Stone Entryway to the Coptic Museum in Cairo, Egypt (LEO Design)

 

Another delightful experience in Coptic Cairo was visiting the Coptic Museum.  Wealthy businessman, Marcus Simaika, founded the museum in 1908 to house his collection of Coptic art and artifacts, some of them dating from the Fourth Century AD.  It is a comprehensive collection of stonework, ceramics, woodcarving, metalwork, architecture and textile crafts.

  

Though our Greenwich Village store is now permanently closed, LEO Design is still alive and well!  Please visit our on-line store where we continue to sell Handsome Gifts (www.LEOdesignNYC.com)

We also can be found in Canonsburg, Pennsylvania at The Antique Center of Strabane (www.antiquecenterofstrabane.com).

Or call to arrange to visit our Pittsburgh showroom (by private appointment only).  917-446-4248